Author Topic: tow beddie project (Read 45218 times)

eddy · « **Reply #50 on:** April 18, 2009, 05:09:31 PM »

howza goin Johhno ... well I sat in the drivers seat for a coupla hours studying the wiring book and reckoning that this goes with that and that goes with this, cut off the extra wires that have been spliced into the existing and tidied her up a bit and nearly got on top of it then .... me mate rings up coz its his birthday partee tonite and he wants us to come along .... gotta go coz we've been mates for past 20 years, I know waz gonna happen, a couple reds and a couple more and a long nite, come home and forget everthing I spent today finding out about....... then get up in the morning ahung over and try and start again, ...... oh well its a mates thing and when ya gotta go ya gotta go! ...... tell ya all about it tommorrow arvo and if the weathers bright even should get some pics up ..... take care bro ... oh well into the shower and off we go do dah, do dah,

Warren · « **Reply #51 on:** April 19, 2009, 04:59:30 PM »

Eddy, try the sticky tape and paper trick

Write on a piece of paper what you think the wire is, the cut that off and stick it to the wire with sticky tape, then when you get a "Red Head" the next morning you just read what you wrote on the note

Warren

eddy · « **Reply #52 on:** April 22, 2009, 11:21:17 AM »

played around with the wiring before heading off to work, the good beddie book states that the white and blue wires that are on the windscreen harness is the accessories junction (plug and socket connector type), is this correct and should I therefore be able to run a wire from this to a fused switch panel for extras?

the good book also states that there are two inline fuses in bayonet type holders incorporated in the instrument harness and are accessed near the steering wheel support bracket ..... hmmm me no see any in line fuses is this now the norm or ya reckon I should be putting in line fuses in?

mounted the custom dash from the camper but have to make it fit better and also mounted an overhead console over the weekend, now I gotta put all the wiring back in place as well as work out the additional temp, voltage, tacho and now an extra fuel guage

?? then theres the stereo and amps

? then theres the extra lighting

?? then theres the CB

?? then theres the solar panels to run exhaust fans out of the rear

?? then theres the ..... ya know what I mean ... then upholster the consoles ...... and panel the walls ......

by the way whos used what in relation to insulating the roof? the wall panels are no worries as I am using acrylic insulation but I am concerned about condensation in the roof

eddy · « **Reply #53 on:** April 22, 2009, 11:24:08 AM »

oh sorry one more before I head off, I will be mounting a fused switch panel, whats the preferred type, I have been looking on ebay at the marine panels but they appear to be the good quality made in china brand, are these reliable?

eddy · « **Reply #54 on:** April 27, 2009, 05:30:52 PM »

built an overhead console this weekend and found time amid the wet and cold on Sunday to cut and mount a 3mm roof panel in the cabin around the sunroof, came up nice and I think I will varnish it rather than trim, should be taking some pics so will do on Wednesday morning, by the time I get home from work its too bloody dark !!! any advice/discussion on the switch panels ?

Warren · « **Reply #55 on:** April 27, 2009, 06:28:07 PM »

Eddy.

What are the switches for, where did you plan to locate them, how much current will they have to draw........as we discussed over the wekend - there is more than one way to skin a cat.

I'm happy to discuss and help with wiring, Ive got a very good crimping tool and half a clue

Warren

eddy · « **Reply #56 on:** April 27, 2009, 06:53:17 PM »

thanx bro, 6 switch panel (if it will fit) mounted on the overhead console, for heater fan, rear spottie over tow bar, fridge, interior lights and additional fans, stereo and running lights .... I got no idea on currents other than make sure you swim between the flags to avoid being dragged out to sea

I like your idea of running directly off the battery but I will have two batteries and of course a dual battery switch so may turn off the accesories when I want to use them .....

Warren · « **Reply #57 on:** April 28, 2009, 12:17:34 AM »

Ok Buddy, run the accesories off the second (deep cycle battery) so that the starter battey is issolated when the ignition is off - cant be flattened by running things over night.

If as we spoke about you use the switches to trigger relays for the high current devices then you can use mini or micro switches, saving space, and wire.

Best thing to do is write a list of all the power requirements, lights, stereo, power to the block of flats, ciggy lighters, fridge........everything, then we can plan how to run the appropriat cables relays etc

Plan it out run and label the cables before you put in all the lining, then finish of after the paneling

Warren

eddy · « **Reply #58 on:** April 28, 2009, 05:29:12 PM »

gosh, how can something so simple make so much sense, thats what I be doing and that will no doubt give me a starting point, Im thinking maybe that the switch panel should be mounted on the wall behind the drivers seat above a cabinet containing the fridge and wire in a 240 volt fuse box as well for the days I get kicked out of the caravan by the missus in the caravan parks. Then I can take the tv and video player with me!

Regarding wheel size, the tyre placard reads 14 - 10, I am aware that I can go from 14 to a 15" rim and standard width as far as I am aware is 7" so I can go up to 8" but can I go 15 x 10" and still pass roadworthy?

Warren · « **Reply #59 on:** April 28, 2009, 05:56:52 PM »

Well Eddy if the plate says 14 * 10 then I would suggest that you could go 15 * 11, I would go 15 * 10 then argue the point if someone pulled you up on it.

I'll have a captians at my plate aand see what it says.

Warren

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