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Author Topic: Door mechanisms  (Read 9964 times)

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Offline downhill

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Door mechanisms
« on: July 06, 2015, 04:58:49 PM »
Wanted, window and handle/lock mechanism, internal, for drivers door. Have glass and tracks, still in door, outside handle ok.
   Location Nelson NZ . Local number, 02040797104.

Thanks, downhill, 2nd Beddy! :) In another country! 8)

Offline BusyKiwi

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Re: Door mechanisms
« Reply #1 on: July 06, 2015, 07:52:24 PM »
mk 1 or mk 2 internal handle ? mk1 is a pull down lever type, mk2 is pull out like the jap cars

window, regulator, door latch are same mk1 and mk2
There are so many people out there who will tell you that you can't. What you've got to do is turn around and say "watch me"

Offline downhill

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Re: Door mechanisms
« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2015, 09:49:48 AM »
Thanks Busy Kiwi, It has splines so is going to be the lever type. I believe it to be a 1980 model long wheel base, badged CF280. Have been asked by the mechs doing the WOF to,find a steering rack also. I have been told also most NZ Beddys were a four cylinder diesel, this one has a crap Isuzu SD25, hard to start and smokes blue when it does. Can you offer any advice on an engine swap that won't require certification, or cost a lot?

Advice greatly appreciated.

downhill

Offline BusyKiwi

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Re: Door mechanisms
« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2015, 01:49:22 PM »
most NZ vans were 2.3 petrol (slant 4)

Might try trademe for steering rack, not much goes wrong with them unless someone tries to adjust the knuckles who don't know how to do it properly (ie you can't just try tighten them, you have to drill out the pin first).

There is no engine swap you can do without getting it certified. Even changing your seats requires a cert.
If you're considering putting a Holden straight 6 in it I might be able to help you out - no cert required. Message me for details if you want to put in a straight 6.
Else you can put anything in it you want, holden 6, holden v6, chev v8, ld28, another sd25 ...

Doing the swap will require funds, going from diesel to petrol will require a new petrol tank (diesel tank has extra pipe in it for return) etc but if you go for a holden v6 for example you're better off buying a complete car for donor. When I did my white one I got a complete VN Calais for $600 drive away, it was just rusty and wouldn't get a WOF and I used the complete wiring loom, petrol tanks, dash, steering column, radiator, diff centre etc and sold off the parts I didn't use and nearly got my money back. Golden rule when you do this is NEVER get rid of any part until you have finished the conversion, not even the floor mats.
There are so many people out there who will tell you that you can't. What you've got to do is turn around and say "watch me"

Offline Rogerfied

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Re: Door mechanisms
« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2015, 01:53:57 PM »
Down hill
the most common motor in NZ for these was the vauxhall 2.3 lite, same motor that was in the vauxhall victor and the viva magnum. they are a slant 4 cylinder petrol with better performance than the diesel and were the factory fit in NZ where as the red six Holden was the standard motor here in Aus. Check with the authorities as when I was in Kiwi land 186 Holden motors were common place so look around you should be able to get a front beam with engine mounts to suit. Common use over there for the Bedfords were as NZ Post, there were hundreds of them in the day

cheers Rogerfied
« Last Edit: July 08, 2015, 01:55:30 PM by Rogerfied »
Take your time, you get there in the End

Offline downhill

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Re: Door mechanisms
« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2015, 05:52:55 PM »
Thanks heaps, Busy Kiwi & Rogerfied! By chance, getting lost, I came across two Beddys in a car yard of sorts out of Richmond here. A later dual rear wheel model, and, a standard CF shorty, converted to camper, as so many seem to be.

 The CF still has the standard slant 4 petrol motor. This would solve my problem of certification, a rubbish diesel, and expensive mod costs, would have more standard fitment. It's had enough bits robbed out of it to negotiate cheap price.  :)
    Thanks Rogerfied for the historical input, I have some standard production codes on a data plate where would I look to see what the fit was from new?
   I'm guessing the diesel was a mod from petrol, the long wheel base probably standard with petrol slant 4?

I would be left with a pretty standard shorty, home made camper with pop up top, not sure if it's the real thing. Plus I get good old jelly bean mags! Woo hoo!  ;D

I really like the long body, dual left seat and nothing in the back but space! Stock as ! Looks like it was meant to be.

Thanks Beddites, for your replies and enthusiasm, I think the path lies ahead. :D

Pushing uphill looking for a downhill thrill! 8)

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Re: Door mechanisms
« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2015, 08:18:10 PM »
You'll find the 2.3 very slow in today's standards. The good thing about the engines, if they drip oil they are good, if they stop dripping you got problems lol and to fix one of the biggest faults (oil pump being up to high) is to drop a marble in the oil pump inner, this helps stop oil run back so the pumps starts wet instead of always pumping dry on start up.

NZ was slack on production codes. in Oz they had the tag with all the details, in NZ you get 2 tags (on drivers seat base), one is the chassis number (tells year, model etc) and the other tag is trim and colour - sometimes.

If your van is registered as a diesel you might still have to get it cert'd to put the petrol 2.3 back in.
Best and cheapest way around it is to find an Australian assembled CF or a already modified van thats been cert'd

The NZ CF doesn't have a stamped chassis number, unlike other countries
There are so many people out there who will tell you that you can't. What you've got to do is turn around and say "watch me"

Offline Rogerfied

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Re: Door mechanisms
« Reply #7 on: July 08, 2015, 08:59:46 PM »
You still have ownership papers in NZ? If you do the original info on engine will be on there.

Rogerfied
Take your time, you get there in the End

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Re: Door mechanisms
« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2015, 06:36:23 AM »
The ownership papers don't always have the correct details; ie if it's been modified you get a cert plate but these details aren't always transfered over to them.



There are so many people out there who will tell you that you can't. What you've got to do is turn around and say "watch me"

Offline downhill

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Re: Door mechanisms
« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2015, 06:44:12 PM »
Hi historical Beddites, no rego on the van, I do have a cert from 1980 saying it was registered as petrol, 12 passenger  rental van. So I would think the diesel was a swap sometime after new. I have a contact, I think he s  in Palmerston? seems to have a lot of knowledge of the breed, also is looking into a sale where he would take some and offer the rest to me. Getting a registered unit would help me out a lot so it seems. Waiting on the outcome of that. Failing that, grab the standard unit here and remove what I need, but that would leave me with stuff I don't need. Hopefully my work will continue next year, or shipping home will happen. No duty payable on more than 20 year old vehicles, waiting on rough quotes from a couple of sources. And the value is only $500, on the sale paper work.

I hope it works out, I'd like to look around the place, the eccentric tourist with a lounge, BBQ and pedally in the old girl. ;D

Watch this space . . . 8)

 

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