bettyvan project

[Betty Bedford]

Hey all - just so you know we're in it for the long haul!  Panel work is now underway. A bit of a sting to it but this beddie will be back on the road soon.

Rust work should be complete week after Easter.  Then its up for the mechanical side.

One thing we've been told is that water is getting into the fuel system?? Any ideas - its still on the slant 4.  Would start and idle but die on take off. I believe its come right at the moment, perhaps cause its in the covered workshop?

As per the advice I've received am keeping a look out for a more decrepit van thats had an engine, box & ideally diff transplant. However if the existing motor only needs minor work we'll probably stick with it for a bit unless something really good comes up. Our priority is to get it legit and get away in it. But if past its best then the 4 will have to go.

Been told that the radiator needs a recore - but keen to get advise in terms of future proofing transplant options.

After this we'll get into the interior - the only part at present we can really put or own effort into, and then look into the new paint. Anyone recommend a paint shop please do - more at the economical end I'd say by the time we get there.


Cheers
Sam

[Sundownernz]

That's looking pretty good Sam. Hopefully you'll be all sorted for the Van Nationals next Easter in Blenheim. Look forward to the progress reports and hope to catch up somewhere during the year.

If your interested there is a van club down your way or you could join the Van Association as an Associate member and get a quarterly magazine on what's happening in the vanning scene in NZ.

Cheers,
Garry

[Betty Bedford]

Slow but steady progress here as the rust repairs things are being primed up and put back together.

Now on to the next decisions - paint now or wait till after we sort the mechanicals...colour and all.

Pretty close to opting for a repower, so a few questions here from my novice point of view:

Mainly looking at the donor car/van route.

will any engine and box options (typical GM repower options - 5speed manual 202, 4speed auto v6/v8) prohibit having three seats up front - middle one usually holding a child?

any other viable engine options - Jeep 4.0 / Ford V6's / Chrysler 6's??

If we go for a more modern injected engine with computer can we still keep the simple beddie dash, but with a few extra gauges as required? Is this more/less work with the wiring etc than swapping over a dash - I'm not sure of the flow on effects of these choices.

Can power steering be fitted with a 202?

Diff centre conversion - any idea of costs and people to use (wellington or wairarapa)? Pro's and con's of this vs a full axle swap, given that changing brakes and wheels not part of the plan?

Is the diff ratio marked on the housing, or do I need to have it on a hoist and just check the wheel vs shaft rotations? Is running a 4.625 bedford rear end (if I had or could get one) with a t700r4 or W58 gearbox a viable option for better open road driving, for an lwb camper?

Hoping my 10inch drums are up to the task if I can get this to be a good 100kph cruiser - advice?

I must have missed something - other considerations and suggestions at this stage appreciated.

Cheers in advance
Sam

[BusyKiwi]

A couple of quick answers;

If you're going to be painting the floor, ie front door step etc I'd wait until you done motor etc in case you end up cutting out a bit of floor

You can fit power steering with anything, depending on the unit you use, you just can't always sit the engine down to it lowest, and the GM pump bolts onto the holden 6 and v8

If say for example you went for a VN commodore V6 and wiring, you could splice the commodore loom into the bedford dash but probably isn't the best method, the VN dash cluster fits into the CF dash pretty well with minimal cutting and you get the use of all the modern options.

If you go holden 6cly you could just track down a cresta crown wheel and pinon (or complete diff), else you can go ford 9in diff, chev 10 or 12 bolt or get your diff center changed with a ford or holden center

The diff ratio is often on a tag bolted to the diff cover or head. These are often taken/broken off. The ratio is stamped on the crown wheel butyou may not want to take it out. To check, jack up your drive wheel, put a chalk mark on your pinion flange and on the wheel and ground or brake drum and turn the brake drum around until the lines line up again - counting the revolutions

Your drums would stop you ok, but deck out the inside of the van and all the added weight can put a lot of pressure on your stopping power. Disc brakes up front are ideal. My advise is you go the disc brake option, especially if your travelling with a child. Lots of idiots on the road these days. Would even consider changing the front middle seat belt from lap to diagonal - this will require an engineers cert  (LVV), if you don't change the middle one at least add some mounting points behind the seat (on the floor, not on seat or seat base) to use a harness style belt for the child

[mezzmo]

Busy i love reading your advice but i changed our drums for a disc front 4 years ago, i have had it to 3 separate 'brake specialists' during that time, i have completely renewed the booster and master and it will still not stop any where as well as the original drums! it feels like I'm stomping on a laming ton every time i brake and every 4th or 5th attempt i have no brakes at all.........what the F**k am i doing wrong???

[BusyKiwi]

mezzmo, you've had 3 specialists look at it so am unsure if I can add anything, but did notice you didn't mention the calipers. Are you running the HQ PBR calipers? I'm guessing they have been checked for pitting and heat cracks (the chrome hardening cracks under long exposed heat and gets cracks which can expand and contract.

Have any of them say why they can't get them up to par?

They've probably already done all this but if it was mine, I'd do it like so; I'd bleed up the master cly, fill up with brake fluid and get a jar with a little fluid in it and a tight fitting hose to place over the bleed nipple and into the jar, can do both at same time or start with passengers side and open the bleed nipple just a fraction. Make sure fluid is topped up and go make a cuppa, come back and tighten the bleed nipple, repeat on drivers side if you didn't do both at same time.

Now I'm sure some are thinking you dumb $%^& everyone knows you start furtherest away first, true you do BUT without bleeding the back it will be mostly front brakes working, another way would be to vise grip the rear line but I don't like that method as it can break the bead in the line, doing this way first will prove if there are any front brakes. There is the hand brake if there isn't.

Doing a gravity bleed should remove all or 99% of the air and you should get a decent pedal, it wont be perfect because the rear will have air in them. Try the brakes, if there is nothing then bleed the normal way (pedal down, release fluid, tighten, pedal up, repeat). The front brakes should lock up if you jump on them.
Another thing to check is your pads, these days you can get 2 types, soft or hard and the hard can get polished from slow long braking. Don't ask me how to tell them apart lol, it's a bit like looking at a length of wood and wondering if it's H4 treated or not.

[Betty Bedford]

Thanks to all for the advice thus far. Agreed Busy, that disks would be better, and that there are some terrible drivers on our roads.

Getting the van out of the panel shop today and off the mechanic's, so progressing along ok. Moment of truth approaching on the engine swap tho.

Enjoy ANZAC weekend all.

Cheers
Sam

[Betty Bedford]

Time for an update - things are about to happen.

Front end bushes and such have been replaced.

VT commodore olympic donor car about to be stripped out.  Have a cresta diff on its way - hoping this is still a good option but if not then well I guess its there for someone else.

Have trawled through many of the v6 conversion posts again - quite a few people saying they would do a bit of a recap on the experience but not sure if any one has done that - no pressure sorry...! I see vintageholden just asking the same question

pro's and con's on the aussie v6 conversion kit?

For the kiwis here I have spoken to Murray Mcquoid in AK - are his front disks and power steering kits a good way to go?

Anyone want any VT commodore parts just ask too.

Cheers
Sam

[BusyKiwi]

I did the VN conversion in my old standard van, had power to spare with the v6. It would be my first pick of engine other than a v8

Murray knows his stuff, he has been doing the CF conversions since the 80's, he is currently swapping out his disc brake plates from welded steel to casted plates. Also doing some bigger caliper options but only fit 15" wheels, still doing the standard PBR ones that take the standard CF or HQ stud pattern. He has also just finished disc brakes for the solid wheel LWB which retains the 6 stud. The spun alloy part is very impressive.
Mind you I am probably a bit biased because I helped him set up the power steering, and did all the bump steer numbers for the engineer. I've known Murray all my life

[Betty Bedford]

Cheers - I'll take that as a solid recommendation.

Murray said I could use my VT calipers and yes would need to go to 15" or greater. Is it possible to go to the commodore PCD instead of HQ (could then use my VT wheels as a start) or will there be offset issue with the more modern rims?

Assuming that going up to 15" it is best to move away from the bedford PCD, in terms of easy available options?