What have you been up to this week

[Gordon]

Hi Gunning, door sometimes not locking sounds to me like a broken return spring on the cog. If you grab the outer cog (the bit that sticks out of the door that engages with the striker plate) and turn it slightly does it spring back into place ? If not its likely to be a broken return spring. Compare the return action on your passenger door lock and you should notice the difference. Unfortunately no way to fix that but to replace the entire mechanism.

[johnb44]

spent the weekend constructing a dash [ mark 2] lots to do at least all the new wiring was easy enough to transfer
pinky is of to the mechanics on tues to get  few more things done, its all taking shape

[Gunning]

Gday Gordon, ive removed the locking mechanism form the door, left it out in the shed and no photo yet
I can visualize what you are talking about, i dont think this is the case, if you look at the outer cog (that is visible and engages the striker plate) at the area where it goes through the bracket. The bracket has a bit of a "neck", the neck has worn away on one side allowing movement. This slop at times prevents the cog from looking and will rotate freely
Another way of explaining it is, if your door lock is in the door. If you look at the outer cog sticking out of door, there is a piece of metal going over it with a hole in it, the cog (that engages the striker plate) has a sort of nipple that rotates in this hole, on mine the nipple can slip out and the cog moves, this allows it to slip from the locking mechanicals on other side
 trying to think how to build up the neck or maybe build up nipple
ill add pics asap

[BusyKiwi]

As well as the spring as Gordon mentioned, if the inside handle is to tight (pull across to far when screwed in) it can stop it closing properly because it's always in the half open stage. to check this unscrew the inside handle and leave hanging and try open/close the door

[Gunning]

Gday Busy, ive removed the locking mechanism from the door all together, there is alot of slop / movement in the bracket, this allows the cog / starwheel on the inside to ride over the locking lever therefore allowing the cog to rotate freely in both directions.
hopefully later tonight ill get pics uploaded to help visualize, at work and hopefully mow lawns today
thanks for the help so far guys, appreciate it

[BusyKiwi]

There will always be slop when not engaged, even if catched freehand, the door rubbers help put a bit of resistance against it.
Best way to check is move the latch plate (people call it alsorts of things) inwards, gently tap with small block of wood and hammer. To align, sit door on first catch, then with a firm push it should close onto the second. I suggest this method as often the doors are twisted or rubbers worn/missing/mismatched. If the door closes with semi firm push try to pull it open (without pushing the button to open), if the door comes open one step your cog/spring is knackered (or inside handle to tight).
If it stays closed is all good and can adjust the pillar catch back a fraction to close easier - don't aim for a little finger close if you want to drive it in the rain

[Gordon]

Gday Gordon, ive removed the locking mechanism form the door, left it out in the shed and no photo yet
I can visualize what you are talking about, i dont think this is the case, if you look at the outer cog (that is visible and engages the striker plate) at the area where it goes through the bracket. The bracket has a bit of a "neck", the neck has worn away on one side allowing movement. This slop at times prevents the cog from looking and will rotate freely
Another way of explaining it is, if your door lock is in the door. If you look at the outer cog sticking out of door, there is a piece of metal going over it with a hole in it, the cog (that engages the striker plate) has a sort of nipple that rotates in this hole, on mine the nipple can slip out and the cog moves, this allows it to slip from the locking mechanicals on other side
 trying to think how to build up the neck or maybe build up nipple
ill add pics asap

Ah, makes sense now Gunning, thanks for that.

[Gunning]

this week ive fixed up my lock issue with another mechanism from donor beddie, now to refit the connecting rod to the internal door handle...frustrating stuff
also starting to remove parts from engine bay, i plan to get a late model engine one day.....hopefully a v6 when i can afford it
also changed a few more door lock barrels, i got a question regarding this. I bought a few off ebay, these were ones from a rover that was recommended on here. My question is are these "blanks" as all the keys in the 2 packs i got are the same, do i need to take these to a locksmith or someone else?
last pic shows original colour

[Gordon]

Hi Gunning, the 8 keys that came with your set of locks should all have the same code number on them and have already been pre cut to fit the 4 new locks in your set. So essentially once you have fitted all 4 of the new barrels you should have a single common key that will open any of your doors and 7 spare keys. Should last you a lifetime 

[Gunning]

Thanks Gordon, i bought two lots, im sure they were all the same, to be honest id have to have another look