Wiring in doors

[BusyKiwi]

Anyone got any secrets when it comes to wiring up the front and side doors?

I mean where to put the wires between door and van.

Seems whenever the doors close the wires get squashed unless manual feed back into the holes

[Rogue Trooper]

I was having a look at this once but decided I didn't really need wiring in the doors but I found that there is a fair bit of room through the hinge area and if you're careful you can run the wires along the hinge arm without them getting squashed when the door closes. I had some speaker wires run like this for quite a while without any issue. Would probably depend on how many wires you're planning on running.

Another idea I had was to drill a couple of holes in a line though the door pillar and door. Loom up the cables with tape into a solid structure and then attach a spring to the loom and fasten the other end of the spring inside the door space somewhere so when the door was closed the spring would pull the loom back inside the door. Problem with this one was that the holes would have to be a decent size and there wasn't really any way of weatherproofing the entry points.

[BusyKiwi]

front doors aren't to bad, as you say run along the hinges, but the side door, because it opens so wide I can't get a spring in there.
Front doors has all the wiring, central lock, electric windows ... side door only has central locking

[Rogue Trooper]

I had a brief thought about the side door but I couldn't really see anyway of having hidden wiring to it. About the best I could come up with was an exposed loom just tidied up with a bit of plastic sleeving. You can keep it relatively tidy and inobtrusive with the gull wing but the problem with the side mounted door is that it swings right out from the body 180 degrees. If you limited the swing of the side door and welded a small box recess into the door you could possibly utilise the rubber/plastic sleeving off another vehicle. That would give it somewhere to fold into when the door is closed.

Actually if it's just central locking then you only need 2 terminals so maybe you could use a scraping contact sort of system similar to the slip rings used for the horn on some steering wheels. You only need to have electrical contact when the doors are closed so if you set up a couple of spring loaded terminals mounted to the door frame and and a couple of contacts on the side of the door that made contact when the door is closed then you could operate the lock. If the door is open then you don't care as there's no point locking an open door.

[Rotti]

I successfully used transmission hose or air line hose, use a decent length, if you buy the hose first, drill later then file the hole so the hose is very snug....works a treat, wont move & wires survive!

[Dano]

Jam tac"s  try this two,three,four five pin....http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=40023

[Rogue Trooper]

Jam tac"s  try this two,three,four five pin....http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=40023

You mean someone already thought it up? Damn, there goes that get-rich-quick scheme.

[BusyKiwi]

they have them on jap vans, on the sliding side door

[Numnutz]

I got some rubber boots from the wreckers (rear doors of Japanese vans)
I found that when the Bedford doors are closed there is only a few mm gap, so the wires were getting squashed.
I made up some small boxes and welded them in, to create a recess for the wires when the door is closed.

I think it worked well.

[John Abbott]

I was wrecking a 1998 Hyundai excel last year and it had those rubber hoses on the doors for that same thing.