not very bright but I can lift heavy things

[obsession]

 

ok pretend im 4yrs old and you want me to put a computer together over the phone 

I have a swb that is standard 6cyl 4 speed most of the wiring looks standard.
It had an immobilize in it when I got it but was missing the click bit so decided to take it out  so i traced all the wires back and removed them and then
put new key in as well.

now I have power to the starter from the battery and thats as far as it goes so heres my question
I have no power at the fuse box?
coming from the front of the fire wall what color should the wire be?

and !!!

a basic wiring diagram MUD map type would be good from starter to alternator to coil to ignition and colors anybody? please?

[Marishka]

sounds like a bit of a buga there craig,
its hard to understand whats going on without being there and seein the wiring,
but usually the power to the fuze box is fed from a wire comming from the starter motor.
before u do anything try tracing the power wire from the starter,
  if thats fruitless try running a alternative wire from the starter up into the cab and put it on the feed side of the fusebox to identafy the feed fuze.
dont cut any more wires out or chang anything till u sort it out or then there will be a major can of worms like i found out 1 day before i was traveling to forster. if its not F*%#ed i dont try fix it anymore, lol
especially if ive had a few burbs or beers, hehe, i found out the hardest way, ouch.
marty

[Warren]

Hehe interesting craig.

Often beddys are butchered beyond all recognition, so what I suggest is draw your own wiring diagram.

Sound hard, but not nessisarily.

Get an A4 sheet of paper and in landsape mode decide on left or right side for the fron of the van.

then around the boarder draw all the things you can think of, and put them sort of where they are in the van, lights, indicators, points, coil, light switches, ignition switches etc.

Then start with one, in your case I start with the ignition, trace the wires from there to where ever, draw it in and name the colour.

As an example red wire from ignition to battery +ve, green wire to points, blue wire to....

If you are methodical you will build up an idea where everthing goes, and from there the source of your issue.

The van may have an isolation switch hidden away some where, that trigers a relay that supplies power to the main fuse box, only way to find that out is as I said above, tracing it out.

I know this doesnt help much

Warren     
 
 

[Tweaker]

If you have a digital camera I would recomend taking photos every step of the way. Take a photo at each end of the wire you're tracing. Add these pics to warrens piece of paper and you'll be a master in no time

[Warren]

Doh, hadnt thought of the camera thing, what a brilliant idea 

[booga]

not sure if they will help (and havent looked to see yet) but i have some beddy books that i could fax wiring diagrams from, but everyone seems to say the same thing, the wiring wasnt that great anyway or it was butchered. prob better as a guide, or just get a holden book and use that prob end up better in the long run.. then you could draw it and wing it, fun and a good learning curve.

[Warren]

Also worth noting, a cheap multi meter from tricky dick or the like, and a 5 meter length of wire with aligator clips on each end is invaluable.

Use the Meter to test voltages, path resistance, switches etc.

For voltage to flow there needs to be a full path from +ve (positive) to -ve (negative) with no resisatance (ohms)


+ve                                                                                      -Ve
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
12V                                                                                      0V
       

if you put a switch in - basicly a break in the circuit then no voltage can flow.

But the potential for flow is still there

to messure this connect the -ve lead of ther meter to the -ve terminal of the battery (via that 5 meter wire) on the 12/24 volt setting.

switch open

+ve                                                                                                          -Ve
--------------------------------------------/ --------------------------------------------------
12V                                 12V                        0v                                          0v

So at one side of the switch/break (with the switch open) you get the 12v potential

on the other side 0v
 

if you change to the Ohm setting you will get


switch close
+ve                                                                                      -Ve
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0 ohm                                              0 ohm


switch open

+ve                                                                                      -Ve
--------------------------------------------/ --------------------------------------------------
Meg                         Meg ohm                    0 ohm                             

an even cheaper tool is a test lamp, one of those tools that look like a screw driver with a light in them and a pointy steel end, with a cable and clip coming out from the handle.

connect the cable to the -ve end of the circuit/wire and work along the wire piercing the insulator with the pointy end of the test lamp till the light turns on

+ve                                                                                                     -Ve
--------------------------------------------/ --------------------------------------------------
12V                                 12V                   0v                                          0v

   |            |            |           |          |               |          |
light on - light on - light on -light on  light off - light off - light off 


The rest is just being methodical in your aproach.


Warren