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Author Topic: motor change..  (Read 10672 times)

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Offline Marishka

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Re: motor change..
« Reply #20 on: October 07, 2008, 03:44:22 PM »
 ;D ;D thanx Johno your a great bloke, sorry for any inconveniance.
it will just save me a bit of measuring and maybe running into probs.
i bet there,s others that will appreciate your effort 2.
 thanx again  :D
marty

Offline restoreid

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Re: motor change..
« Reply #21 on: October 07, 2008, 04:03:07 PM »
Hey John your a clever little bugger arn't you that engine trolley is pure genious cheers Reid
If you want a job done right DO it yourself

Offline John Abbott

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Re: motor change..
« Reply #22 on: October 09, 2008, 12:18:44 PM »
Ok Fellas here are the measurements for the engine trolley if you want to build one.. ;D
The 2 long pieces are 2 meters long 40mmx40mm sq.tube approx. 2 mm thick.
The end piece with the trolley wheels is 700mm long 30x30mm sq.tube 3mm thick.
The shopping trolley wheels give it a height of 200mm.

The sections that clamp around the front crossmember are as follows...
2 x 50x50mm sq.tube 3mm thick approx.500mm long.
2 x 30x30mm little uprights,80mm high, 3mm thick sq.tube
2 x flat bar 400mm long,50mm wide,4mm thick.

The bolts were just large ones i had lying around. This trolley was made out of stuff that i had around my shed at the time ,except for the trolley wheels that were kindley donated by the Coles Myer Group.
I just ground down the nuts to fit into the ends of the tube and welded in. Have fun guys...Johnno ;D ;D
John Abbott

Offline Marishka

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Re: motor change..
« Reply #23 on: October 09, 2008, 05:22:57 PM »
thanx for that Johno,
i take it the 2 small boxtubes that are welded to the ends of the 2 x 2mtre lengths are 40mm boxtube?
looks like ill be going to the steel store with a precut order,  :)
the trolly will be a great additon to the tool shed.

marty
« Last Edit: October 09, 2008, 05:39:10 PM by marty »

Offline John Abbott

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Re: motor change..
« Reply #24 on: October 09, 2008, 10:35:14 PM »
Hi Marty.....Actually those pieces are two bits of angle that are welded to the 2 metre lengths and then bolted to the trolley wheel section.The reason for that is so that i can "break down" the whole trolley when i need to store it away. If i had welded that end together it would of taken up to much room. The angle is 40x40mm and 3 - 4 mm thick. Hope that helps. Any other queries just ask!! Have fun....cheers..Johnno ;D ;D
John Abbott

Offline ben

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Re: motor change..
« Reply #25 on: October 10, 2008, 03:02:05 PM »
sorry people internet went down a week ago..

nice trolley john.. similar one to chris ryans one eh. i think ill be putting 4wd tyres on mine thou lol.. no concrete round here.. except in dads shed grrrrrr.. its ok i get the rest of the yard hahaha 6 beddys at home and mum is starting to get a bit on the annoyed side..

hey gary that sounds like a sweet idea tieing to the bar near the grill.. have to try that next time..

last time (on a van i cared a little more about) i made tough bracket to mount a bar off the bolted onto where the bumperets bolt onto..

didnt feel it was quite strong enough but it was definatly quick ay..

cheers
ben



Offline Rubber Bedford

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Re: motor change..
« Reply #26 on: January 03, 2009, 05:40:33 PM »
John, I am thrilled to bits to see your elegant solution to the engine removal question. It will help me with my own disassembly.  Three questions...

1) does the trolly need to be 2m long? There seems to be an excess of 500mm which would interfere with the hoist if you wanted to roll the front end forward. I can't tell if this would have been possible. If not, how did you actually manoeuvre the front end out?

2) what is the purpose of elevating the rear wheels during this procedure?

3) would you have been able to return the front end, after removing the engine, and steer the beddy onto a car carrier trailer?

Regards, rubber.

Offline John Abbott

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Re: motor change..
« Reply #27 on: January 04, 2009, 12:19:05 PM »
Hi Rubber....Answers to your questions....I spose the trolley doesn't need to be 2 metres long, it was the first time that i had made and used one. If you have a look at one of photos where we are starting to wheel the front end out, we just get it clear of the carby then we put 2 car stands under the chassis.Once those stands were in place, we could lower the hoist and  the whole weight of the motor/gearbox/frontend was supported by the trolley and two front tyres.
So you just then grab the front wheels and roll the whole lot out of the way. As we had hired the engine hoist we did not know exactly how high we could get the body up so the owner of the van thought putting the back wheels up would give us a bit of extra height. It definately made getting in to undo things like exhaust/cross member/tailshaft/ ect alot easier. No probs with putting back under van minus the engine.If you could imagine it (without motor and box) as the body is sitting on the stands already, you can roll the front end back under,hook the hoist to the body,take out your stands and lower it down slowly so the 4 main front end bolts could be tightened up,and connect the steering components plus the "out rigger" bars to the chassis and your away!!!! cheers..Johnno  ;D :D ;D :D ;D
« Last Edit: January 04, 2009, 12:23:02 PM by John Abbott »
John Abbott

Offline Rubber Bedford

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Re: motor change..
« Reply #28 on: January 04, 2009, 04:00:03 PM »
And you could stick your feet through the hole where the engine was and make like the Flintstones!

Thanks John for the clear explanation.

Rubber.

68holden

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Re: motor change..
« Reply #29 on: January 04, 2009, 04:30:00 PM »
if you cut the basket off a shopping trolly the base makes a great little dolly or v8 engine stand :)

 

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