Let the VT V6 swap begin

[willo]

Well, the time has come. 
I have gathered most of the bits and am going to start swapping out the 202 and Trimatic for a VT V6 and 4 speed auto.
I am currently fitting up the new digital speedo into an old instrument binnacle that I had. 
I have seen this done many ways including drilling a big hole in the clear perspex and poking it through the front and just adding a second electrical speedo. I wanted to keep the original looking binnacle but with a modern digital speedo and tacho (I have an overhead console with all the other gauges already) so I kept them behind the perspex by spacing it with a piece of MDF.
I made up an MDF spacer and fitted it up behind the perspex and mounted the gauges into it.  This weekend i'll add the trip meter button and wire it all up.  I want to make sure that all the lights (new because I removed the printed circuit because of the longer speedo) all work before I remove the motor.
I've uploaded a couple of photos to my album (Willos CFL camper) of the dash as a work in progress.  Will tie more of them together with more explanations as I go along.

Cheers

Neil

[Worby876]

Hope it all goes well mate..
Ive done nothing more to my poor old girl...I really need to find a shed
so I can work on her..out in the sun is not condusive to work on hot , windy
or wet days im afraid.

I will check out your progress in your album

cheers

Ian

[likemagic]

http://www.buga.com.au/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=8&g2_itemId=36775

the album save some hunting

[Worby876]

Looks great..nice job

How much did the speedo and tachometer set you back?
how do you connect the speedo? Is it cable or hall effect with magnets on
The tail shaft or fly wheel etc?

Cheers

Ian

[willo]

Looks great..nice job

How much did the speedo and tachometer set you back?
how do you connect the speedo? Is it cable or hall effect with magnets on
The tail shaft or fly wheel etc?

Cheers

Ian

Hope it all works when I finish mate.
The tacho was $180 and the speedo $200 (not sure about the speedo as it was part of some other stuff I bought from V6 conversions in Moree).
The speedo is fired from the hall effect sensor in the box.  Need an ignition power wire, a single wire from the speedo sender and an earth then that is it.  It should work... Same with the Tacho. 
I bought a wiring harness from V6 conversions and it has the wires ready for me to hook straight in.
Not sure what else I'm gonna need to get it running right but I have replaced the P/S pump already and am going to see how I go with the sump and engine mounts.

I'm heading down to Phillip Island in a couple of weeks on my bike to watch Casey in the MotoGP so I'll get serious after that.

"Let the games begin"

Cheers

Neil

[vintageholden]

i have a complete set of VDO gauges for sale if anyone interested.







$350.........

[willo]

Well, the dash is now fitted to the Beddie and all hooked up.  Haven't started the engine swap yet but this part of the jigsaw has been a success.
For those who came in late ...
- V6 commodore motors need a digital speedo and I decided to build the new dash before I started with the engine transplant.
- I used a piece of MDF to space the new speedo and tacho back behind the existing perspex instrument cover and rewired with LED warning lights.
Problems? Yes a few minor ones to be aware of.
- Spacing the instruments back 10ml means that my hazard switch can not fit on the RH of the instrument binnacle.  Moved it to one of the 4 spare holes under the gauges. 
- The same goes for the cigarette lighter/power socket that I had previously installed on the left side of the instrument binnacle.
- Rear cover brackets need a 10ml 'rework' to ensure the cover fits onto the front piece as it should.  Do this before you finally install the binnacle.
- Alternator charge light needed for alternator to begin to charge. LED light not sufficient load to excite the alternator. Found the following diagram on the internet and bought the parts from Jaycar for under $5.  Problem fixed and alternator light works as it should now.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=125353
- I needed to recess the LED warning lights into the MDF so they were lower than the perspex surface.
- I also needed to make up a small trip button that would go through the perspex to allow me to calibrate the new digital speedo and to use the trip meter on an ongoing basis.  Luckily, i have a very clever mate with a lathe and he made me one using an old push micro switch from Jaycar.  Works a treat! 
- Had to turn down the headlight and wiper knobs at the back of them to let them go deeper into the new dash as they were too fat with the new 10ml recess.  Not hard but just another small thing that needed to be done.

That's all the steps and minor issues I think.
I'll put a photo up of the final unit when I get a chance.

Cheers

Neil
 

[tiwaz_nz]

i like the dash so far ..cant wait to see it finished 
where is the fuel gauge going ?
i wouldnt mind one like that with fuel , oil , and volts in there
 

[willo]

i like the dash so far ..cant wait to see it finished 
where is the fuel gauge going ?
i wouldnt mind one like that with fuel , oil , and volts in there
 

I've got an overhead console and the fuel, volts and temp gauges are already in there. I was thinking of moving them all down in front of me (sort of Speedo and Tacho with the oil, temp, fuel, volts sitting around them) but decided in the end to leave them where they were and use it for the speedo and tacho as I thought it might be a bit too crowded all in the standard binnacle as the position of the warning lights is dictated by the painted markings on the front perspex. (which is what I wanted to keep original-ish)   I also moved the H/Beam light and put the V6 engine warning light into the binnacle as well. Forgot to mention that in my earlier post.
Will upload a photo of the finished product in the next couple of days.

Cheers
Neil

[willo]

Well, Hope everyone is recovered and into 2013.  Remember less than 50 weeks to go to Christmas
I have been into the V6 swap and all is progressing well.
not running yet as still have more to do but progressing well
Will post some photos and more details soon(ish) but in the meantime here is some brief info.

Floor - Cut about 50mm from the passenger side.  About 25mm from the driver side.  Nothing from the rear.
Air intake - Cut the VT air cleaner box down and mounted it under the brake booster.  Piping runs across the top of the motor and back to the plenum chamber much the same as the original Bedford.
Computer - Under passenger seat.
Wiring - Went straight to V6 conversions. Brilliant!!! and it works.  The computer controls too many things in Commodores not to have a good, reliable wiring conversion.
Engine mounts - made up plates from 6mm steel using the original V6 locations. Used the 202 rubbers with 50mm RHS posts welded to the chassis.  LH side fits nicely behind the AC compressor.
Gearbox mounts - Standard X member spaced down 50mm.  Original trimatic mount using 6mm steel plate for adjustment.  This plate also allows me to mount the gear linkage cross over shaft.
Gear linkages - original beddie auto shifter on RH side and cross over shaft to V6 4 speed linkages on left side. (yet to be finished)
Sump - rear facing CRS sump with 'hammerhead' shape (IE capacity out to sides)
Radiator - Bedford 3 core radiator with electric fan and lotsa shrouding to control air flow.  Not sure if this is going to be a success but we'll see how we go.  V6 radiator=2litre capacity and Beddie 3 core=2.6litre capacity.
Coils - had to relocate because of shape of Beddie floor.  Made up a bracket and mounted them above the thermostat.
Tailshaft - 2 piece tailshaft with 55mm cut from front shaft.
Fuel - external EFI pump mounted in a VL commodore mounting bracket.

That's all for now.
Still got more to do but as each problem arises I have been able to overcome it so far.

Cheers

Neil