Reviving Barry

[Jock]

I'm really looking forward to............

1. Having a fuel gauge (Do I really have to remove the tank to fix/replace the fuel sender?)

2. Having a working speedo (Any advice on how to achieve this is most welcomed)

3. Having good brakes!

[Jock]

Another successful night and day on the Beddy, had my head down and didn't take any pics AGAIN! Sorry guys...

The good news is that I now have brakes! Finally finished the disc brake setup and it stops like a dream.
Installed the speedo cog (white) and the speedo now reads correct!
The next is to take the fuel tank out and fix the problem of the non-functional fuel gauge.

After that I will start on the body work, I have a front apron coming from Ben (thanks Ben!) and once that is welded to the front of the van I will start on the body work, there's a little rust repair to be done and then it will be sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding x 1,000,000 and then paint!

So far so good, happy with the progress. Once I had the brakes bled and tested in the yard I took the van for a quick drive, it was purring along nicely. Can't wait to get it back on the road.

2012 - The Year Of The Beddy!

[Jock]

I just recently purchased this Weber carb setup on ebay, I am going to install it over the next couple of weeks, here's good riddance to the Varajet carb!

[Marky]

hey Jock

i have replaced the tank float in mine...and its read perfect now....

pm me

[Jock]

i have replaced the tank float in mine...and its read perfect now....

Marky,

When you turned the ignition on did it go straight to the 'FULL' position?

Cheers

Jock

[Bas / NZ]

ONLY IF YOU HAVE A FULL TANK

[Jock]

ONLY IF YOU HAVE A FULL TANK

Oh fhark I wish my tank was full all day everyday Bed-day!
But it's not the case Baz! She shows full but she is empty... I think it is a common fault. I read here of a similar problem:

Heres a quick fix that worked for me;

 i had same problem with the fuel gauge sitting on full all the time, so i read this page which in turn got my bedford game face happening  & i pulled the whole sender unit from the tank, wired it up outside the tank,  couldnt get it to register on the gauge while shifting the float up and down.  so i took the sender unit into the cheapest looking auto electrician i could find,

turns out i had a build up of x amounts of krap on the main (and only)  terminal at the top and the piece that goes through the base plate making a connection problem from the underside as well from buildup there too.  cost me 10 bucks to get fixed. pulled apart re contacted cleaned and re terminaled  which you could do yo'self if thats the problem, - check that out with a multimeter measuring resistance on both sides of that base plate ....  

hope that helps someone without having to trace those hard to follow sender wires  or pull apart dashes/ buy new gauges. worth a check first i reckon, worked for me!

[slikgm]

Hey jock did you need to put a proportioning valve on for the back brakes  after fitting your disks ,as i am working on this conversion at the moment

[Jock]

Hey jock did you need to put a proportioning valve on for the back brakes  after fitting your disks ,as i am working on this conversion at the moment

No proportioning valve.

[slikgm]

thanks i will try that when i finish the task!