What to do?

[Warren]

Ben

Looks more like poor welding is the reason for the mounts cracking than the actual design.

The mounts are triangularly braced to the bottom of the cross member, but looking at the third pic shows some pretty average welds.

As for shortening tail shafts, the way I used to do them, without having to rebalance them is to mark a line from the yoke down the shaft past where yo intend to cut it, then use an angle grinder to grind into the centre of the weld that joins the yoke to the shaft.

Take your time and you will gring out the weld till you reach the base of the yoke, the yoke should then tap out of the tailshaft. The yoke usually has a stepped shoulder that is a tap fit into the tailshaft.

How to get the cut square - get a sheet of A4 paper and wrap it around the shaft lining up the edge of the paper, use it to mark the cut line, then (again slowly and carefully) cut the tailshaft to within 2 or 3 mm of the line, then use a file to finish it off.

If you do this correctly then the yoke should tap on to the tailshaft, and butt up square to the (nicely filed) end, make sure you line up the line on the yoke with the line on the tailshaft before you tap it in though.

This should ensure that the yoke is parrallel with the shaft, as you say though you could use a dial indicator or scribe block to check if there is any run out.

Tack and weld. 

Warren

   

[ben]

here is what we did today!!

was gunna do the welding my self but one of dads mates wasnt doing much so he came round and gave us a hand and i picked his brains!! now i got much better welds!




12mm plate. should be strong enough:))

[hunterbynature]

i welded flat plate to my crossmember first, then welded box section on to that, it takes the load of any specific point were welded on to he crossmember and stops any cracking, it was originaly welded onto the crossmember without the flat plate and had cracked right around the base, so i cut them off and started again





then moved the motor back and dropped it down abit so the huggers now clear the crossmember

[ben]

what tranny you running stevey? i notice you have welded around the bellhousing:)

yeh the front crossmember steel aint very thick eh..

well ill do that next time if it cracks again..

cheers
ben

[hunterbynature]

hey ben its a toyota corona 4 spd, chev bell housing, fork has been moved to the other side for hydraulic clutch set up, uses lj holden slave cylinder i think

[ben]

does the 4 speed with overdrive? did you do the conversion?

cheers
ben

[ben]

you could make your own bellhousing couldnt you? if say i wanted to run to run something that has never been run before? cut and welding thick plate. would not look very pretty:(

[hunterbynature]

no overdrive ben does't ned it, the gearing is perfect withh the creasta diff, my mate done the conversion before i bought the beddie, has a adapter plate from gearbox to bellhousing, yea ya can adapt up a lot of things, gotta do a lot of measuring etc, you no what i mean, i'll upload some more pics after tea benny

[ben]

Ben

Looks more like poor welding is the reason for the mounts cracking than the actual design.

The mounts are triangularly braced to the bottom of the cross member, but looking at the third pic shows some pretty average welds.

As for shortening tail shafts, the way I used to do them, without having to rebalance them is to mark a line from the yoke down the shaft past where yo intend to cut it, then use an angle grinder to grind into the centre of the weld that joins the yoke to the shaft.

Take your time and you will gring out the weld till you reach the base of the yoke, the yoke should then tap out of the tailshaft. The yoke usually has a stepped shoulder that is a tap fit into the tailshaft.

How to get the cut square - get a sheet of A4 paper and wrap it around the shaft lining up the edge of the paper, use it to mark the cut line, then (again slowly and carefully) cut the tailshaft to within 2 or 3 mm of the line, then use a file to finish it off.

If you do this correctly then the yoke should tap on to the tailshaft, and butt up square to the (nicely filed) end, make sure you line up the line on the yoke with the line on the tailshaft before you tap it in though.

This should ensure that the yoke is parrallel with the shaft, as you say though you could use a dial indicator or scribe block to check if there is any run out.

Tack and weld.

Warren

makes a lot more sense to me now warren.. after reading it a few times. nice ideA!!!!

[ben]

cool cant wait stevey!!!

ben