cam shaft replacing

[MaTTe]

hey mate, fair enough. i understand the lack of cash flow completely.. ahaha
yeah on a street car, you probably pay more attention to the noise of small things like that, however i've never noticed the straight cut gears over the harmony the the race car, from idle to redline, but so long as you're happy thats fine.
I have seen the angle cut gears sheer tho. However i haven't heard of the straight gears grinding themselves down in any sort of manner. We do use good addatives, but i'd be guessing the cars that've suffered have had problems with the oiling.
The J.P are good though, so you should be happy


Anyway, what sort of valve springs have you gone with? We use the crow 308 springs and knock the second (centre) spring/damper out of them. Again it probably isnt a problem on a street car, but we changed from these to some out of something smaller (253 or similar) they're not as stiff, but we broke 3 springs in quick succession.. so it was straight back to the 308 springs.

I've had a quick look at your manifold, and must say im impressed. Sounds like it'll be a good motor.
keep us updated.

Cheers
Matte
 

[able]

as i have limited if any experience with motor modification im trusting the knowledge of the people doing the work... i will find out what springs ect ect  they use when i get the cash up for the head.

they built a $7000 big block for my cousin that has not missed a beat.... silly bugger sold it before he got it into a car... ow well when you have kids your goals change.

[MaTTe]

no worries, if they're in the business they'll have an idea of what they're doing.. it's all easy to do if you have the right tools, if not you'll struggle..

I bet he'd have sold the kids if he'd put the motor in a car first 

[able]

he sold it to a brother in law... which means he can take it for a spin if he desires...

the only complaint was that it makes the car go sideways just as much as forward

[ben]

that sounds powerful..

[able]

that sounds powerful..

and expensive fuel wise i hear. i remember watching a vid of it on the dyno... the camera was loosing sound and the video while they were revving it. i didn't know extremely loud sounds could effect video camerares like that but when they were not testing it it would regain sound and vid...

[able]

with the smaller timing gear (the one on the crank shaft) what sort of grub screws are in the two holes?

red 202.

edit im looking all over the net but it seems the only reference i can find is that you need a special puller... i have a two armed generic gear puller.

i had a look at the new gear and it has no shoulder for a screw bolt to even sit against... i cant see into the one on the motor as its full of grease...

both my manual "Haynes" and my mates just say remove gear...... the only info they give on the gear is to use a large socket to drift it back on.

so what is the go with this dam gear? is it pins or screws or what?

 

[MaTTe]

hey mate, do you mean to secure the gear on the crank, or to pull it off the crank?

If you mean to pull it off, they're 7/16 fine thread bolts for the puller (from memory)
If you mean to secure the gear on there, we never put a bolt in to secure the harmonic balancer infront of the timing gear, you have much more chance of having the harmonic balancer split in half on the rubber than to have the pulley work loose.

I hope this answers your question

[rossie]

the gear on the crank is held in place with a moon key, use a three pronge pully toremove it and be sure to have a bolt in the front of the crank, to save damage to the thread.

[able]

i only have a two armed puller but i cant see how you would get a third arm on. the case is in the way and only half the gear is accessible.

so their is definitely nothing i need to unscrew in those holes?? i can just put a puller on the gear and it should come off?