3rd broken clutch cable, there must be a better way??

[Atoyer]

I'm running my beddie with the supra 5 speed conversion. And now after 3 cables in less than 2 years am over it. I believe the issue may be from the cable not having a straight run from the clutch peddle to the firewall. I have been told about the possibility of going hydrolic assisted clutch which, if it is an option i would like to look at if affordable. Also, is worth mentioning that the clutch peddle is hard enough to press at the best of times.

If you are a mechanic near Melbourne who can help or any advice would be much appreciated, Tonz

[ben]

yeh i went thorugh it with my clutch. had a 1 ton clutch. was heavy as!!!!!!!!!!!!

i continually broke linkages between the pedal and cable.. welded it up like 4 times.

then broke the cable..

i found the answer!!!




auto:)

ben

[BusyKiwi]

the cable coming out of the fire wall is often at fault, it should be angled (a small wedge)

[Warren]

Atoyer - this is reprinted from the old forum - I did this over 4 years ago - no problems since.

Heavy Clutch/Hard Shifting/Broken Cables

Hey SS & Justin

I have had a few problems similar to yours with Boris (Heavy Clutch/Hard Shifting/Broken Cables), which I have just fixed.

Some background:

Boris runs a Holden 202, with a 3 speed box that was very heavy on the clutch and crunched into reverse, and was difficult to select first & second.

A second broken clutch cable had me decide to replace the gearbox with a four speed and fit a new clutch.

In the process of pulling out the gearbox I checked the clutch release lever to find that one of the two riveted bolts that come in contact with the thrust bearing was gouged and warn down. The clutch was only about half worn, and the gearbox was OK.

The problem stemmed from the release lever (due to the wear) putting uneven pressure on the thrust bearing, which in turn put uneven pressure on the clutch diaphragm, which caused the pressure plate to whisk the clutch plate, spinning the input shaft, making gear selection difficult. Also the uneven pressure on the thrust bearing was causing the heavy clutch.

The original riveted bolts have a hole in the centre were a rubber bush sits, the job of these bushes is to keep the release lever centred on the thrust bearing. With only 1 or 2 mm of each bolt coming in contact with the thrust bearing. Worn rubbers meant that the lever twisted, allowing one of the bolts to slide down the face of the thrust washer, binding and further wearing the bolt.

The solution was to build up the two bolts with weld, then file them so that there was only 2 or 3 mm play with the thrust bearing and 4 or 5 mm of each bolt contacting the thrust washer.

Now with a new clutch & cable its like chalk and cheese, the clutch is so light it seems like no pressure at all is required to use the clutch, and gear changes are breeze.

Once again a simple fix makes all the difference.

Happy BUGA Warren

Also check the firewall for cracks around where the cable goes through, it is common for them to crack there - I welded a large flat washer onto it, and as I have said, not a problem since.

Warren 

[Atoyer]

thx all for reply. I think i'm at the point now where I could do with a proffesional opinion and without any welding skills i'm going to have to call in the experts for this one. If there is anyone in the melbourne area (the closer to brunswick the better) that can do this please drop me a message and give me some kind of guesstimate of how much it will cost and we organise a time. thanks again for alll the responses.

[Warren]

Tonz

Which end of the cable has broken ?

Are there any cracks on the firewall ?

What mechanical skills do you have ?

What tools do you have available?

What workspace do you have?

Do you have another clutch cable?

Nosey Bastard arnt I

I'm in Croydon, I will PM you.

Warren




 

[Rothu]

I have the exact same set-up and went through 4 cables before solving it.
Basically the firewall is pretty weak and fatigues over time making it harder to pull the cable as the wall flexs inwards.
So I cut a piece of 1/8 steel plate to fit over and beyond the fatigued wall (mine had cracks as well), then drilled holes for the cable end and metal hex screws.
I cut OUT the old wall then connected the cable through the new plate to the pedal.
Lined it up straight, then marked for the hex screws, removed cable, drilled small holes for the hex screws and then mounted it all.
Bingo! I have not had a broken cable since when I did it 2 years ago! And SO much easier to depress the damn pedal! 

You do need to adjust the nuts that are on the shaft to the clutch release lever leaving 2mm play to avoid burning out the clutch release bearing. This will also bring up the pedal height.
But this solved all my clutch problems..

[ben]

fantastic solution:))

[Marishka]

id go hydrolic, woul;d be easy as to depress clutch 2.
first 1 i snap im going hydrolic.
ive had the van now for about 6 years.

[able]

my beddy already had the above plate put in.

slightly less elegant then the example shown.... it seems to be deliberately angled slightly down leaving a gap at the top.

i will keep it in place but fill around it to make it look stock before painting.