Help Removing Clutch Cable

[Warren]

I had problems with my clutch and solved it fairly simply.

Below is a post I made about it all from the old site, also I remeber that the firewall where the clutch goes through was cracked and a large metal plate was slotted in between the clutch cable and the firewall, causing the pull on the clutch cable to be at an angle, I repaired it by welding a large flat washer onto the firewall, doing away with the large metal plate, and making the pull on the cable square.  Also grease the pivot points on the cable ends to stop the cable twisting sideways when the cluth is depressed.

It must be a common problem as I have seen quite a few beddies with the same cracks.

A few dollars and half a day stuffing around fixed it no worries.

Four years later - still the same clutch cable, still light and easy to use.

Heavy Clutch/Hard Shifting/Broken Cables

I have had a few problems similar to yours with Boris (Heavy Clutch/Hard Shifting/Broken Cables), which I have just fixed.

Some background:

Boris runs a Holden 202, with a 3 speed box that was very heavy on the clutch and crunched into reverse, and was difficult to select first & second.

A second broken clutch cable had me decide to replace the gearbox with a four speed and fit a new clutch.

In the process of pulling out the gearbox I checked the clutch release lever to find that one of the two riveted bolts that come in contact with the thrust bearing was gouged and warn down. The clutch was only about half worn, and the gearbox was OK.

The problem stemmed from the release lever (due to the wear) putting uneven pressure on the thrust bearing, which in turn put uneven pressure on the clutch diaphragm, which caused the pressure plate to whisk the clutch plate, spinning the input shaft, making gear selection difficult. Also the uneven pressure on the thrust bearing was causing the heavy clutch.

The original riveted bolts have a hole in the centre were a rubber bush sits, the job of these bushes is to keep the release lever centred on the thrust bearing. With only 1 or 2 mm of each bolt coming in contact with the thrust bearing. Worn rubbers meant that the lever twisted, allowing one of the bolts to slide down the face of the thrust washer, binding and further wearing the bolt.

The solution was to build up the two bolts with weld, then file them so that there was only 2 or 3 mm play with the thrust bearing and 4 or 5 mm of each bolt contacting the thrust washer.

Now with a new clutch & cable its like chalk and cheese, the clutch is so light it seems like no pressure at all is required to use the clutch, and gear changes are breeze.

Once again a simple fix makes all the difference.

Happy BUGA Warren

Warren

[ben]

yeh wish i had have checked that out before i put the auto in.. oh well im happy now anyway.. much better first gear..

cheers
ben

[Warren]

HeHe ben thats always the way aint it

There's always one just down the road cheaper 

[ben]

yeh well i was sick of the manual anyway.. so ive got a m21 for sale now lol.. with a 1 ton clutch in it lol..

ben

[Atoyer]

Thanks for the replies,

To give you all an update I have finally replaced the clutch cable after 2 attempts. First of all, after stuffing around for a day trying to find the cable alone I found "Auto Cables" up in Greensborough who made me up one (Joe Pace 03 9434 1410 if anyone is needing in Vic). I also used an angle grinder to make a slit on the side of the adapter that connects the wire cable to the clutch peddle for easy attachement. I had to remove the pin for the clutch and brake peddle as well as remove the engine cover to access the bolt on the fire wall for removal and replacement of the backing bolt that holds the cable in place. After doing all that and putting it all back together I found out the hard way that my measurements for the cable itself were 10cm too short so did it all a second time just for fun... (Joe at Auto Cables was kind enough or showed enough pity for me to just to replace the cable inner at no cost). The clutch now is working again but is still quite hard to use so will continue to look for other solutions. If anyone knows where I can get the rubber bearings from as discussed in earlier posts please let me know or if anyone needs any help as i am now the 2 time expert (",) drop me a message and i would be happy to help out.

Tonz

[Warren]

Tony

The release lever (the thing that sticks out of the bell housing, and the cable connects to) has two pins that contact the thrust bearing, I just built thehese two pins up with weld and then filed them down to have a neater fit to the thrust bearing, givein more surface area at the contact points.

This has to be done with the gearbox out, you could just slide it back and rest it on the cross member out of the way.

Warren

[Tweaker]

Hey Warren thought I'd join in and mention that a previous owner has done the some to mine with the welded crack and the washer and all that. Can probably see in my picks.

[Warren]

Hey Tweaker

I had a look at your pic's and yes you can makeout the washer and what looks like some welding around the area.

As always if you look for the route cause of a problem and fix that, then the other issues wont arise.

I had gone through 2 clutch cables in a period of 12 months and I think I was paying nearly $100 a pop, so a few hours spent adreessing the real problem (craked firewall & worn release arm) and the issue was resloved once and for all.

Light clutch action, no sticking in gears, and no broken cables.

Thats the advantage of sites like these, reading of someone elses problems and solutions, or asking questions about an issue and you can save yourself time and money.

Warren