brake booster

[Marky]

I had seen this set up b4 done by JAAB Conversions in Adelaide...

Early Commodores have Disc front n drum rear...looks neat...does it work well?

[Shazbot]

yep. works great. Parts easy to find. Pulls up on a dime. Still running original proportion valve with F150 diff and drums in rear.

[Sammy]

i know this is digging up an old topic but I'm interested to know with the commodore booster/master conversion, how are people shortening the shaft that connects to the pedal ?

im looking at doing this for mine but I am not sure how the shaft comes out of the booster (if it does at all) and so hence not real sure on the best way to shorten it then re-flatten the bar end without getting too much heat into the booster ?

[phill]

Sammy I had the same problem not sure how the pushrod comes out and heat transfer up the rod, so I cut the rod and welded the bedford linkage on the end, did small welds and cooled after each one to try to prevent to much heat,did not like this as it would of hardened the weld, but after thinking about it you could make a sleeve that goes over the rod, weld linkage on the end,the rod is always pushing against the pedal so maybe a grubscrew or rollpin to secure the sleeve to rod, only heat is when you cut the rod.

[BusyKiwi]

When I did mine, we fill up the back with water and wet rags around it, heated it up red hot and used a press to flatten it where we wanted it.

Check with your engineer before you weld pedal or booster, in NZ it's not allowed, not even sleeved.

[phill]

I checked with engineer before cutting and welding and he recons it's OK, sleeving was an after thought will ask him about it next time.

[Sammy]

yeah my engineer isn't real keen on welding either!

[phill]

Rang engineer today, told him how I welded and cooled to prevent heat,not happy as this hardens the weld area, I suggested the sleeve thing he said he was happy if it is tig welded and cooled in some sand, with a 3mm roll pin to secure it.