new fuse box wiring = help!

[GusB]

trying to install a new fusebox, old one is pretty stuffed so i bought a pre wired navra one,with the clip on fuses

i got the original bedford wiring config at the moment, it all matches the manual wiring diagrams,so thats good. i   havent started yet,

anyone got any advice on where to start? which wires to hook up first.? 

im thinking the two brown wires being main power and maybe ignition then do the rest later.   the thing is there seems to be a hell of a lot of piggybacking going on. some fuses have four wires off each!  also the brown wires in the diagram page (180 of manual) both go to the first two fuses, is it ok to split them up on the new fuse board, or should i stick to the original setup, all help required!

[Rogue Trooper]

Keep it simple. Stick to the original wiring configuration unless you really know what you are doing. There will be piggybacking on some fuses to save wire length and volt drop etc. Also I would strongly suggest you do the whole lot in one hit. Don't do half and then the rest later.

Oh and when I say one hit I don't mean cut all the wires at once. Move one circuit at a time but do the job to completion. It will save confusion as well as trying to split feeds between the 2 fuse boxes to keep everything running.

[Warren]

I would agree change it all over, and maintain the standard configuration so that the next time some one wants to do any thing they can still use the original wiring diagram.

If you want to run extra anciliary equipment think about another seperate fuse box for them.

Warren

[GusB]

thanks for the direction...  i definatly want to keep the existing wire colouring for future reference points and for resale factor. thanks for the tips so far ... 

[GusB]

ok, i rewired the new box, and it works a1!

 except for one thing - the ignition doesnt turn the engine off.!

any ideas whats going on here? the ignition is 6months old so im 90 percent sure its not broken,  and it clicks to the off position but the engine still runs...  have i hard wired something? any idea what to check.

when i did the new fusebox i went wire for wire, didnt change anything  and everything else works great. totally stuck on this!

[Rogue Trooper]

You will need to get an electrical tester and test that the ignition switch is indeed cutting the circuit. 90% sure means you haven't tested it so actually don't know. It's quite possible it is faulty. I've lost count of the number of coincidental faults I've had in my career. Once you have eliminated the igntion switch as the source of the problem you can start looking elsewhere.

[GusB]

fixed the problem. i checked the ignition switch was fine,  then went back to the
original bedford wiring diagram for answers...

  it shows fuses 1 and 2 are soldered together as well as being isolated from the others, those two fuses run main power from the starter motor, power to ignition plus all the stuff you want running without a key in - horn, interior lamp etc. and the new navra/narva  fuseboxes they're selling now have 2 lots of 6 fuses hardwired together. which is crap for bedfords if you want to stick to the original bedford wiring config, be sure to isolate those first two fuses,   glad to see the back of that chapter.
 having a second bedford in the driveway just as a reference point for the stuff you muff would be handy in times like these .)

[Rogue Trooper]

Well done that man.

[LS120]

reading the problem it sounded like a power not disconnecting issue and that would have been a wire or the fuse box configiration.

well done in tracing the fault.

so we have a new wiring  fault finder on the site now 

[Rogue Trooper]

reading the problem it sounded like a power not disconnecting issue and that would have been a wire or the fuse box configiration.

Not necessarily. It could also have been a short somewhere else in the wiring loom due to a previous owners hacking around stirred up by the fuse box replacement or a shorted contact in the ignition switch which supplies power to the ignition circuit in the first place.

New parts are just as likely to be faulty as old parts and until you have isolated and confirmed that a particular part of the circuit is indeed working correctly it must be considered as a possible fault.