Replacing 5 speed gearbox, need advice?

[Atoyer]

Hey all,

My supra 5 speed decided to die at the worst of times and now I have to replace my gearbox.

I'm looking at 2 options at the moment. Replace the gearbox with another 5 speed and try to fix the clutch from hell at the same time (ive already been through several clutch cables and am sick to death with a clutch that nearly breaks my leg every time I want to change gears), or to replace it with an auto.

I am tempted to go with the auto option but am concerned with what parts I need to get going from a manual to auto (gearstick, fittings, etc)and what difference it will make when cruising on the highway. My mechanic has told me that it will be a much cheaper option to just replace the 5 speed but do not want to be left with the same problems I have had. Any ideas?

Also, If anyone has any for sale in Melbourne drop me a note, thx

Thanks, Tony

p.s. I have the 202 red engine

[Bas NZ]

Hi Atoyer, I guess to stay with the 5 speed is the best option that is if you have a low ratio diff in there, as the 5 speed gives you the overdrive and allows the van to have a good top end and also good low down power. To replace it with a auto is a lot easer than going from an auto to a 5 speed to auto as you would then need to add the clutch pedal etc AND ALSO REPLACE THE DIFF WITH A HIGH RATIO. ( if it does not have one) As for the clutch there should be no problems there so it must be in the set up you have, so should be easy to fix with the right advice.

End result: if you have a low ratio diff in your van STAY WITH THE 5 SPPED and say a lot of money. If you have a high diff ratio consider the auto as an option.
I like the auto as it gives a smooth ride, but everyone has his own likes and dislikes.

[ben]

yeh there is a bit of info on here for breaking clutch cables cause your not the only one bro. i went auto after breaking one of the clutch linkages 3 times then the cable. was sick of it. but when everything is setup right you wont have a drama.

stick with the 5 speed. pick up a celica 5 speed, that will be more than adequate should pick one up for $200.. and its all the same i think as the supra except a lot cheaper:)

give us a call 0419529677

cheers
ben

[Marky]

when u replace the gearbox

make sure u get new spigot bush

a new throw out  fork n bearing...

 i remember reading on here that wear n tear on the fork makes its pressure uneven or something like that

i got my new fork,spigot, thrust bearing,
new 2nd balanced flywheel n ring gear & clutch pressure platefor $300!

 it was new/old stock sitting in the warehouse ..just bargained with him n said

"Let me take it off ya hands....its just sitting gathering Dust.." he wanted $500 he he

Clutch pedal is light as...n you can do it ya self in a weekend


or u could even go the hydraulic option.... u need a different throwout fork tho

then no more broken cables

i

[Atoyer]

Thx all for your replies,

 I think I will stay with the 5 speed at the moment even though the idea of cruising in my beddie without the worry of having to change gears is very appealing.

Now comes the fun part, sourcing the parts I need and hoping that I can fix the clutch problem at the same time.

[ben]

hoping that I can fix the clutch problem at the same time.

no need to hope. other people have had the same problem and have fixed it. so can you:) Belive in yourself!!!! you can do it bro!!

ben

[Atoyer]

Anyone know where i can source the parts in Melbourne?

[Morgz]

Hey Atoyer.  I've got the same set up as you (Supra 5 speed out of red 202) and I also had problems with a real heavy clutch that made driving a chore.  But... it can be fixed and it's a little easier than you might think.  I'm no mechanic so I'm just going to have to describe it to you and hope you get what I'm saying.  The problem is in the pivot point for the throwout fork.  In the standard set up for the 202 it seems when this pivot bolt (the bolt with the ball that forms the pivot for the throwout fork) screws all the way in to the clutch housing you end up fighting it for leverage to get the clutch plate clear enough to change gears.  I used to tighten my clutch cable up to try to deal with it and would end up stretching the cable until it snapped.  Did it twice, damn frustrating.
So have a closer look at this pivot bolt, with the bolt tightened onto the housing the throwout fork is already well past a 90 degree angle to the push rod from your clutch pedal.  Leverage is the key, you want your throwout fork sitting as close to 90 degrees to the push rod as possible so you get maximum leverage right?  So just wind out the pivot bolt a bit, this brings the throwout fork further and further forward until it's pretty close to 90 degrees to your pushrod (even a tad closer than 90 would be ideal so you're moving through the peak leverage as you push in the clutch pedal but I don't know if there's enough thread on the bolt).  Make sure you leave enough of the pivot bolt screwed into the housing for it to be safe.  You don't even have to take the clutch apart to do it.  I used a hammer and a nail punch to tap the bolt around (working through the gap after taking off the outside...cover bit) after disconnecting the push rod so the throwout fork is swinging free. Do this as a test, you should see instant improvement.  Now that you know it works you have to find a way to stop the bolt from slowly working it's way back in under pressure from the throwout fork, which it will do.  I thought about taking the whole thing apart so I could put some washers on the bolt to hold it out but I honestly couldn't be assed so I just got a little knob of quicksteel (the slack man's friend) and fudged it around the exposed threaded part of the bolt.  It's enough to stop the bolt from screwing back in under pressure and seems to be holding up ok (did that 6 months ago and things are still ok).  Now all you have to do is readjust the tension on your pedal assembly to match and you should be sweet.  Makes such a difference, reckon I nearly pulled the steering wheel off a couple of times trying to get enough strength to depress the clutch before I fixed it!
Hope that helps, cheers,

morgz

[Rothu]

Morgz is on the money with the pivot bolt.

The other thing I did that completely changed the heaviness of the clutch was to fashion some 1/8 steel plate to replace the firewall clutch cable fitting. Was never heavy again! And I did it about 2 years ago. No more broken cables!