BUGA Community

Hi guys im after a few small things.. Ive tried don kyats, and jo from dandenong with no luck so far... What im after are the following

Break wheel cylinder x 2 rear
engine mount
clutch cable
accelarator cable
break lines
spigot bearing bush (crank end for a supra)
mount for a supra...

Hi mate,
there is a guy in Lismore, NSW who makes new handbrake or clutch cables from a sample. Look up Wright's Clutch Service.  He has all the various ends and knobs and cables and ferrels etc and just needs the sample to get it all spot on for you.
I've used him a couple of times and been happy with his service and price.
and importantly, he isn't related to me nor do I have any interest in the place. 
Cheers
Neil

mine came home on the back of a tilt tray.  bought it from a deceased estate and it hadn't run for 6 years.  Had to winch it onto tray top. It was that long that the back wheels were slightly hanging off the back of the tray and passed the RTA roadside inspectors on the way into town.  Luckilly, not pulled in. Towie stopped at the servo for me and pumped up the square tyres. Pulled up in front of my place and used the winch to stop it running away down the hill.  Still with no brakes we ran out of rope so I aimed for the kerb backwards with a 1% handbrake and park in the auto in an emergency.  Got it there safe and well and there it sat till I bled the brakes and got a bit of a pedal and got the thing running to get it in the yard.
Lotsa fun.  Many repairs (and years) later it is on the road and wouldn't be without the motorhome.

Neil

i knew that!!..           thanks guys know of any particular ones that go straight in or do i have to go an adapter plate ?? cheers

mate, you need an adaptor plate.  Only problem is that a T700 behind the inline 6 still means that you have to cut the floor to fit it. 
I've got a spare in T700 in the shed if anyone wants it.

Neil

You are welcome to disagree. But I'm still right!

I've studied thermodynamics and have many examples in domestic and racing practice where I've seen this to be true.

These are two examples:
 
I own a 1930's vintage car. Cooling system is perfect except it runs hot all the time and I cant get the correct thermostat for it. I removed the thermostat and it over heated again but only on highway driving. I made a metal disc with a 25mm hole in it and placed it where the thermostat should be as a starting point to give me some idea if I needed more or less flow. Of course it was slow to warm up without a thermostat but amazingly, it does not overheat and sits right around where it is supposed to be. I have left the disc in place with no dramas since.

I have been crewing for a V8 speedway team for a number of years. We decided to change the power steering set up, in doing this we had to change the pulley sizes and therefore ratios. First heat out we had overheating problems. Realising the coolant was flowing a lot faster because the waterpump was now spinning a lot faster too.  With no way to change the pulleys, we changed out final drive ratios (thank God for quick change diffs) reducing the engine RPM (and sacrificing HP) and the car finished the night OK. Back in the workshop, we re-did the pulley set up bringing the waterpump speed back nearer original and have had no issues since. You must appreciate that these race engines are working harder than normal and cooling is marginal at the best of times. So it appears Beddy cooling systems are not so different.

Anyway, again, for what it is worth.

Beerbeddy

Yep, I agree with what you are saying.
the issue with removing the thermostat is that the water moves much faster and much sooner as the engine warms up of a morning but importantly, it goes quickly around the front of the motor only and the back of the motor has minimal circulation. thus, the back of the motor will run hotter and lead to overheating.
Similarly with the pulley ratios.  it pushes all the water around the front of the motor at a faster rate and not letting the air flow through the radiator do its work. 
It really comes back to the interaction between the water flowing at the right volume aka thermostat/restrictor in place with no blockages and correct water pump ratio and the airflow through the radiator aka no blockages and the radiator surface area is sufficient to cool the volume of water passing through it. 
It is a science and it all has to work together in unison.

Cheers

Neil

There must be somebody in Australia who could copy these? and then we could all put a bulk order in for 1 or 2 hundred, might get the price down to $10 each

I need 2 now and I'll take another 4 for spares please.

I just went to the Rare Spares website and they have a "contact us" option for something you'd like to see made.
I copied the part number from the english website and sent them an enquiry.

Give it a go and if we all send in a request then we might get lucky...

Neil