BUGA Community

That seems like some very helpful advice chaps, thanks heaps.  So I reckon I'll go with a rebuilt short motor just in case the big end bearings aren't the only things that are worn out.  I'm guessing that while I'm in the process of buying the short motor I can ask them to pop on a few extras like a mild cam (any suggestions?), hydraulic lifters (to 7,000 rpm), hardened valve seals, billet timing gear etc yeah?  Have I missed anything worth popping on?   What about getting it properly balanced?  Pistons bored? I'd like to actually put a bit of effort in when I've got the chance and get something that's going to be a step up from what I had.  I'll do a ring around my area and see if anyone's got a quality short motor hanging around.  I'm also assuming the high volume oil pump is a standard bolt on thing like this yeah: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Holden-6-Cylinder-High-Volume-Oil-Pump-186-202-/220612006782


So now all I need is someone to do the swap for me.  I'm a little wary of taking it to a regular mechanic to do this, I'd rather someone who already knew what it takes to get the engine in and out of a beddy, I know it ain't a normal thing.  Does anyone know someone northern suburbs Melbourne way who is up for it?  I live in North Coburg.  Any contacts would be most appreciated.

Cheers fellas, I'll let you know how it goes when I get started.  The old girl is still running (I push her gently) but I don't know how much longer she's got so I'm getting onto it fairly soon.  Thanks again,

morgz

I'll be there fellas. Looking forward to it.

Hey Atoyer.  I've got the same set up as you (Supra 5 speed out of red 202) and I also had problems with a real heavy clutch that made driving a chore.  But... it can be fixed and it's a little easier than you might think.  I'm no mechanic so I'm just going to have to describe it to you and hope you get what I'm saying.  The problem is in the pivot point for the throwout fork.  In the standard set up for the 202 it seems when this pivot bolt (the bolt with the ball that forms the pivot for the throwout fork) screws all the way in to the clutch housing you end up fighting it for leverage to get the clutch plate clear enough to change gears.  I used to tighten my clutch cable up to try to deal with it and would end up stretching the cable until it snapped.  Did it twice, damn frustrating.
So have a closer look at this pivot bolt, with the bolt tightened onto the housing the throwout fork is already well past a 90 degree angle to the push rod from your clutch pedal.  Leverage is the key, you want your throwout fork sitting as close to 90 degrees to the push rod as possible so you get maximum leverage right?  So just wind out the pivot bolt a bit, this brings the throwout fork further and further forward until it's pretty close to 90 degrees to your pushrod (even a tad closer than 90 would be ideal so you're moving through the peak leverage as you push in the clutch pedal but I don't know if there's enough thread on the bolt).  Make sure you leave enough of the pivot bolt screwed into the housing for it to be safe.  You don't even have to take the clutch apart to do it.  I used a hammer and a nail punch to tap the bolt around (working through the gap after taking off the outside...cover bit) after disconnecting the push rod so the throwout fork is swinging free. Do this as a test, you should see instant improvement.  Now that you know it works you have to find a way to stop the bolt from slowly working it's way back in under pressure from the throwout fork, which it will do.  I thought about taking the whole thing apart so I could put some washers on the bolt to hold it out but I honestly couldn't be assed so I just got a little knob of quicksteel (the slack man's friend) and fudged it around the exposed threaded part of the bolt.  It's enough to stop the bolt from screwing back in under pressure and seems to be holding up ok (did that 6 months ago and things are still ok).  Now all you have to do is readjust the tension on your pedal assembly to match and you should be sweet.  Makes such a difference, reckon I nearly pulled the steering wheel off a couple of times trying to get enough strength to depress the clutch before I fixed it!
Hope that helps, cheers,

morgz

Cheers for the suggestions guys.  I was always concerned about water build up in the channels.... will certainly consider that.  I'm not so worried about the heat and mozzies though, I've already got plans for a removable screen for the mozzies and I'm sure having an opening for hot air to escape will do more to lower the temp than the heat coming through the glass, especially with a suitable heavy mirror tint (say 70%).  But yeah... the water/rust...... 

A small vent might work I suppose, won't look as nice.  The idea is to have it as an escape vent so that I can open the windows a bit in the cabin and have air flow in the front and out the back, cooling the whole van.  As it is now I have to wind the window almost entirely down before I actually get air flowing 'in' the rather than sucking (thanks to the bernoulli effect).

I wonder if I could get mini pop-ups, the width of the high section of the roof?  hmmmmmm.... one on each side might look ok, with heavy tint and a little fly screen to velcro into place.  Maybe I'm dreaming 

Those cowel vents are interesting, will have to have a closer look there too.  Thanks again fellas,

Morgz


p.s.  Eddy, I've got a top mounted brake light built into the fiberglass back door but haven't installed it yet, I agree it's a good idea

Yeah bro, finger flames are the shizz nizzle, he he

I'm gonna bust 'em out at the Van Nat's in Geelong, might even give the beast a dust up so they show up better before the show!