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think I got it sussed . the block needs to be on the bottom  control arm near the pivot point of the lower  ball joint  so when the stub axle assembly comes around to full lock it cant come any futher and that is the point of minimum up and down movment and wear .
so as you suggested Mariska 1oclock on the red circle, im thinking 7oclock is the  best point of minimal movment  as 1oclock would be on the caliper.

and yes you are right , it needs a lota luvin as its been sitting in the shed since 1988.
so the plan is to remove ,clean, replace and paint whatever.
and so it begins finally.
                                  cheers

thanks for reply marishka
  the conversion was done approximately 34yrs ago by jaab conversions in Adelaide and apparently
 needs lock to lock stops welded on the bottom control arms to prevent binding so it will pass inspection ,
 and so far I haven't seen any info to support my quest.
 it has been a long time between drinks and designs have changed over the years, but finally age is prioritizing this project to regain our youth and enjoy THE GOOD OLD DAYS.   
so any helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated                                                                                                     

Hi All,
As a new comer, still working out how to drive this site.
After 30 years finally got back to discbrake conversion on shorty.
Hoping someone can inform me of where to weld blocks on bottom wishbone to stop calliper getting wedged.
Great site - Lots of information - Still learning.