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I have full LPG and a Late model 350 / 700R4 / 12 Bolt on 15" rims.  I get 100km for $10.  Range was an issue with a small tank so now I'm adding an APA 306F Toroidal 58 litre external tank from the BF falcon wagon.  With this I will have 100 litres and approximately 600km range for $60 in a V8 bedford.......not bad.

The haters for LPG will argue that its not really worth it, but the physics of LPG make it hard to ignore:

1)   
LPG wants to expand as a gas as much as possible, unlike petrol vapour which is always fighting you to return to liquid form,   for this reason single plane manifolds work exceptionally well if you have the space.
2)
The AFR across the rev range is much more stable compared to carbs, making the vehicle more driveable with less work in my opinion.
3)
Cold/Warm/Hot mornings, an LPG engine will always fire right up.

BUT, you need to set up your engine for this different fuel correctly or you will burn out valve seats, destroy pistons with pre-detonation etc.  A racer sets up their motor for Nitro, Methanol, Dope, or Alcohol.....we should set out motors up for LPG if we are to expect good outcomes.

1) Ensure you have HARDENED valve seats

2) Use LPG SPARK PLUGS because they are the correct heat range for the fuel.

3) Recurve your Dissy (or retune your ignition) so it fully advances at 2000rpm.  I used the moroso HEI recurve kit and the lightest possible springs.

4) Set static timing to 10-14 degrees

5) Add a  variable vacuum advance and set to 12-14 degrees

The goal was to get 14/14/14 degrees of Static/Mechanical/Vacuum advance so at full advance I have around 42 degrees as a starting point.

There we have it.  My van tows well, goes hard, starts every time and costs bugger all to run.  I hope this helps.

Regards,
Chucky

I'm not on here that often but I will try to post pics sometime soon.

I just checked my invoice and it lists the following:
P917R:  Rack End Eunos, Ford, Mazda
TE5361: Rodeo Tie Rod End

As for the other comments on my intermediate shaft, yes a new one could be fabricated, should I do this? No, because my legitimate engineer has passed it, should you? ask your engineer and do what they say.  Some engineers will pass mine, some wouldn't, some states would, some states wouldn't, I don't make those calls and neither do most of the people on here ;-)

now with that said and done, I took her for a good run today and the lock is a lot less but man it drives nice 

funny that you mention dirt track......I don't baby my beddie that much ;-)

Sorry for the lack of photos, I need to sort out a photobucket account of some kind.  The whole PS system is in and working as of tonight.  The final parts list was as follows

VE Rack with hard feeds to be cut down.
Eunos Tie Rods
Holden Rodeo Tie Rod Ends
CS130 Alternator
3M hose
TS Astra PS Pump w/hard feeds (I had the bracket modified for firewall mount)
VE Intermediate Steering Shaft (Rack end cut off and welded on to the the bedford shaft in place of the rag joint)
80A resettable fuse from EBAY
Large Terminal Block
10mm plate for the brackets
4 12mm High tensile bolts
Various welding/engineering

If you can weld and have decent metalworking skills/tools it is a solid weekends work, for about $600 if you plan ahead.

I'll try and put photos up soon....honest