BUGA Community
General Category => Members Rides => Topic started by: able on December 17, 2008, 07:10:25 PM
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thought i would start a thread so i can post pic's as i bring my beddy back to its glory.
i will take photo's at every stage and would appreciate comments and advice as i go.
today i started stripping... the doors and bonnet, the badges, flooring, headlining and hinges.
will start sanding back tomorrow.
(http://www.buga.com.au/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6515&g2_serialNumber=2)
(http://www.buga.com.au/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6535&g2_serialNumber=2)
(http://www.buga.com.au/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6520&g2_serialNumber=2)
found rust int front steps...
(http://www.buga.com.au/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6540&g2_serialNumber=2)
(http://www.buga.com.au/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6545&g2_serialNumber=2)
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Hey Able, An old Buga here, Don't forget t mark everything as t where it came from!!!! 6----------- mths time; ?????? Where the hell did that bit fit eh!!!
Cheers Brian :-[
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SandB
Digital cameras and photos of how it all fits together works for me I can never be bothered marking things and get most things back together sice Ive started taking photos.
Dave
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Hi able, mezzmo here - gumbie just like you and... just like you i'll be starting work on my beddie in the next couple of weeks - i 'll be following your progress closely for hints and tips - good luck!!
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yep im writing on everything!
and taking pics before i remove anything.
im also using masking tape to tape all bolts into their holes to save on head scratching later.
p.s mezzmo, all the good advice comes from the senior members.
i have not been involved in car repair or painting since i was in my late teens/early twenties...
they are on the ball and you can get several opinions on a question... some times within a hour and sometimes over night. im 50% more confident then before i found this forum.
good luck and please start your own thread with pics when you begin.
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Hey Mezzmo, i'm a Frankstonian too, just near ballam park
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Pull all the bolts nuts and washers off the parts you replace.
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That looks like one tidy van - I'm jealous
To add to Brett's idea, if the bit doesn't have a nut and bolt then use masking tape and tape the nut/bolt onto the part
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gday does anyone know why i cant see the photos? im just getting a box with a cross in it...
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gday does anyone know why i cant see the photos? im just getting a box with a cross in it...
westy in internet explorer go to tools then internet options, then advanced, scrole down to multi media and tick show pictures, If its not that then it might be your anti virus program stopping it
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Hey Able...An idea that i adopted once, was i bought about 50 of those "snap lock" sandwich bags and as i pulled nuts and bolts and washers apart, i put them in one of the bags and dropped in a piece of paper with them that had written on it where it came from. It worked a treat for me!. ;D cheers...Johnno
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you can get ziplock bags with a white section on them, just write on them with indelable ink - workes for me :D
Warren
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good idea fellas!
i was using old Chinese containers (the miss's collects them) but its a waste when some things only have four bolts..... and putting multiple bolt lots in the one container sort of defeats the purpose even when you write on the things....
i was suposed to be sanding today but a million tiny things popped up....
i will get a little done before it gets dark and start in Earnest tomorrow.
question...
i bought some seam sealer that does not shrink back... (my welding cousin didn't seem to interested in welding the seams...) i have used a wire brush on a angle grinder to dig out the bog in them and will fill them with it..
can you sand seam sealer? and would i also use it on the rain gutters under and/or inside?
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Yep Pretty much what everyone here is saying. The white strip snap lock sandwhich bags with the digital camera and a word documental on your PC (or Mac for those wierdos out there) and you're laughin! No need to remember anything cause you can remind yourself as you go. It's a great way to store spares also ;)
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question...
i bought some seam sealer that does not shrink back... (my welding cousin didn't seem to interested in welding the seams...) i have used a wire brush on a angle grinder to dig out the bog in them and will fill them with it..
can you sand seam sealer? and would i also use it on the rain gutters under and/or inside?
All sealer shrinks to some degree - be warned.
You can wire wheel the old stuff out but you need to etch and primer before sealer
No you can't sand sealer - you can a little but is not forgiving, it will tear or come out before it got smooth.
The trick is to use prepsol (wax and grease remover) or similar, squeeze in the sealer and wipe back with the prepsol, until smooth - be warned, do not soak the sealer, will tend to shrink and/or crack
You can use seam sealer anywhere and ideally use it on every seam.
Sealing the seams can cause some problems, the top of the front guards for example, these will crack when the van twists, joins like that you can use urethane. Actually i think thats the only one prone to crack
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able is it brushable seamsealer in a can or is it in a tube (calking gun) or in an aluminium tube that you squease buy hand .
i would prime seam first and then rub then seal last just befor painting . to apply you can tape up either side of the seam and wipe in sealer remove tape and then smoth out with prepsol and a rag as busy said or if your careful using a calking gun run a bead down the seam then smoth out with prepsol . the reason for using tape is that sealer can be a right pain to clean up so its best to put it only where its needed .
hope this helps :)
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brush-able seal in a can type
alright. i will clean it all up and etch and prime the entire side then do that tape method.
i only want to do the vertical seams at the half way mark and perhaps the gutters. when i have worked on cars in my youth some cars had seal type material inside the gutters and if you take it out you have to put it back in....
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hang on is that first layer primer then seam sealer and the the other coats of primer over the seal sealer?
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seal after its all primed and rubbed . just befor painting . i recomend getting the cartridge type to use in a calking gun if your going to do the gutter and vertical seam much easier to aply . i use sikaflex 295 white
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ok will look into it.
thanx for the advice!
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Nice lines of sealer can happen with lines of tape and then a wipe along with a paddle pop stick. Welding is probably a much better option though
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Hey guys , Im currently working on the strathfield car radio beddie I bought from Chris and they have spent a lot of money doing the paint a long time ago.
Now the paint is still pretty good. but the areas that have issues are where they have used seam sealer to seal the joints.
So if your going to a lot of effort to do your van up make sure that you really dont want the seams before you seal them
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so am i reading you right toolking that i can just clean out the bog some other fella smeared in them and just etch/prime and paint over the seams without putting anything in them?
i don't mind that they are there... and im not looking for seamless... its just if its in there a green horn like me thinks its meant to be in there...
if you telling me i can just clean them out and make sure they are even looking and paint over them like they are not even there then i would much prefer this option.
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the problem with sealing seams is if it`s not done right it will cause problems (imagine that) thats why i recomend sanding befor sealing so that the sealer sticks better and doesn`t separate . sealer has a job to do and thats to flex at joins but to prevent water getting in . bogging may crack and not putting any in will probably result in rust as the water will penatrate better than paint.
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due to excessive amounts of old paint and the need to remove crows feet i have been forced to take the beddy back to bare metal.
their was simply to greater height difference between the two areas and i was dealing up to 50% crows feet at least....
i have removed the paint from half the van so far and have removed a rainbow of former paint jobs and uncovered previous pull outs and repairs... i have removed all old bog and im happy with the extent of the pull outs and also happy to reapply bog to these areas as they are no greater then 5mm thick in the worst of it. (back driver side corner...)
question.
am i to key up area (bare metal) and apply bog to the required areas or am i better off prepsol/ech/primer and then sand back areas that need work later so that the bare metal is not uncovered for to long?
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i was using old Chinese containers (the miss's collects them) but its a waste when some things only have four bolts..... and putting multiple bolt lots in the one container sort of defeats the purpose even when you write on the things....
i bought some seam sealer that does not shrink back... (my welding cousin didn't seem to interested in welding the seams...) i have used a wire brush on a angle grinder to dig out the bog in them and will fill them with it..
YES YES YES.... prob the best decision you'll make ..seam sealer, after doing all the prep work and NOT bothering with the correct sealer (i used sikaflex295) it has shrunk. and now having to re do, I bought a carton of 3M but one of the best things I've bought,(PM me if anyone wants some) RE side seam vert, mask up so you wont need to sand and just use a little to seal only (dont try to fill seam) it designed to stay "soft" so sanding would be a messy issue,let cure and prime, I have primed first to give an extra seal .
Re chinese containers..... they become brittle and crack/shatter losing parts (speaking from experience) use both but definately snap bags.
Dano
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i found a place i have to weld... right under the back driver side corner.
like a stress fracture/tear. (about two inches long)
their is one right beside it that a previous repairer has welded up...
im using a glassless mig to weld it as well as a few small rust rust holes (1 to 2 mm) that the previous repairer just bogged over... might as well weld them right?????
so will the weld be prone to rust? is their any thing special i have to do or just grind and the usual over the welds?
i also found a small stress tear on the passenger side front pillar... i take it i knock in and weld over?
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front pillar...
(http://www.buga.com.au/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6642&g2_serialNumber=2)
driver side rear stress fracture...
(http://www.buga.com.au/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6647&g2_serialNumber=2)
p.s... the modify post button seems to have disappeared???
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my first attempt at panel beating.... i bought a cheap $60 panel beating set and had a crack at it.
drivers side rear.... before.
(http://www.buga.com.au/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6661&g2_serialNumber=2)
and after...
(http://www.buga.com.au/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6666&g2_serialNumber=2)
im still not happy with it but should i leave it alone in case i ruin what i have achieved?
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nice work mate its 100% on what you began with
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i will only need a smear of bog in places instead of the 5 - 10 mm i dug out...
im having another crack tomorrow at one or two places and then down tools before i ruin it ;)