BUGA Community
Technical => Driveline => Topic started by: ben on October 02, 2008, 10:19:40 PM
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here are a couple of pics of me pulling out 253 out of cream van..
(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh20/jukeboxesrus/PICT0154-1.jpg)
(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh20/jukeboxesrus/PICT0155-1.jpg)
(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh20/jukeboxesrus/PICT0157.jpg)
back on the ground thank god!!
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Safe as houses
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love your work Ben
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That's the way u huh u huh I like it u huh u huh that's the way.....
Like your work brother! Hoist her up, wheel her out and voila! hahahaha
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wow, u dont muck around do u ben, :)
great job ,
marty
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hy doofhard.. wouldnt get under there like that ay.. just get it out and run.. lol
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G'day Ben
I suggest that you should build a couple of tools to make life easier, and safer for you and the Bedfords!
A trolley to roll the motor and gearbox out. I posted plans on the old forum.
The body can be lifted safely from underneath behind the front doors. A frame can be easily welded up to achieve this. No scratches or dents on the CF or you.
Regards
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I agree Chris safety is important.
I have seen your ideas for the engine and that is excellent.
As for the frame for lifting the van from behind the front doors, could you give us a sketch of what your suggesting.
I would have thought a gantry would be a good investment and simple to build, but your idea may be smaller cheaper and easier.
Warren
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Hi Chris, could u please re-post your plans on this forum? Im gonna do a motor swap ASAP and this would help me alot. I saw pictures of the trolley but dimensions would be great. Do u have pictures/plans of the lifting frame?
Thanks
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G day all
the easyest way to do this, is with a 2 post hoist. make it a lot safer & less head & back acks.
there is nothing in your way just roll the hole lot out & back in.
but if not i have used 2 hi lift jacks & 2 hi stands.
matt has used 1 engine crane to lift the body of the front end then put 2 stands under it.
its been like it for 2 years (long rebuild).
sway
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Hi Guys....I have some pics of a motor and gearbox trolley that i made up for doing the engine swap for ozzie bedford a while ago.I will see if i can find them....cheers John Abbott. ;D ;D
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Hey Ben,
You had the right idea. Lifting the van up off the front end is the way to do it. Some people cut the front rollpan off and bring it out through the front but that stuffs the front of the van.
The way to lift it is to take the bonet off, number plate off and the front grille out. there is a huge beam running across the front of the van below the grille. Just wrap a rope around this and lift it from there. You can then wheel the motor, box etc out from under the van passing the motor through the wheel arch. That way you don't have to lift the van so high. I did mine like this in my garage and it worked a treat. Doesn't wreck any of the panel work either.
Cheers,
Garry.
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How about lifting the front with 2 of these jacks on either side? They are rated at 3 tonn and go 108cm high? Only concern is that the footings are quite small, but maybe a long piece of steel running under the van to join them? Hey Garry where can u get lifting frames in NZ?
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...opps here is a pic of one
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Id be worried about stability with those I think :-[
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oohh :( Im with Craig, don't go there bro, looks like a catastraphe waiting to happen, I got a frame for an overhead block and tackle made up, and hoist using two brackets that supported a bull bar and adapted them to take a chain, I gotta do an engine swap down the track when do you need pics by?
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Here ya go guys....some pics of my engine trolley and the lifting bar that you place under the front chassis and hook up to your pulley.
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa315/johnabbott_2007/Liftingbarjpg.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa315/johnabbott_2007/Davesbedfordbusybee001.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa315/johnabbott_2007/Enginetrolleyjpg.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa315/johnabbott_2007/Crossmemberclamp1jpg.jpg)
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The clamps slide down the long tubes and clamp down under and over the front crossmember. The small bolt that is welded in the front holds them in place. We left the gearbox crossmember on and that sat on the rear of the frame near the shopping trolley wheels.
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa315/johnabbott_2007/Davesbedfordbusybee008.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa315/johnabbott_2007/Davesbedfordbusybee007.jpg)
;D ;D ;D cheers...John Abbott.
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cool trolly John, any chance of getting the measurements of the pieces, and gauge,s of wall thicknesses?
regards marty
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No probs Marty....I will scurry around with my tape measure and ruler tonight for ya!
cheers...John. :D :D
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;D ;D thanx Johno your a great bloke, sorry for any inconveniance.
it will just save me a bit of measuring and maybe running into probs.
i bet there,s others that will appreciate your effort 2.
thanx again :D
marty
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Hey John your a clever little bugger arn't you that engine trolley is pure genious cheers Reid
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Ok Fellas here are the measurements for the engine trolley if you want to build one.. ;D
The 2 long pieces are 2 meters long 40mmx40mm sq.tube approx. 2 mm thick.
The end piece with the trolley wheels is 700mm long 30x30mm sq.tube 3mm thick.
The shopping trolley wheels give it a height of 200mm.
The sections that clamp around the front crossmember are as follows...
2 x 50x50mm sq.tube 3mm thick approx.500mm long.
2 x 30x30mm little uprights,80mm high, 3mm thick sq.tube
2 x flat bar 400mm long,50mm wide,4mm thick.
The bolts were just large ones i had lying around. This trolley was made out of stuff that i had around my shed at the time ,except for the trolley wheels that were kindley donated by the Coles Myer Group.
I just ground down the nuts to fit into the ends of the tube and welded in. Have fun guys...Johnno ;D ;D
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thanx for that Johno,
i take it the 2 small boxtubes that are welded to the ends of the 2 x 2mtre lengths are 40mm boxtube?
looks like ill be going to the steel store with a precut order, :)
the trolly will be a great additon to the tool shed.
marty
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Hi Marty.....Actually those pieces are two bits of angle that are welded to the 2 metre lengths and then bolted to the trolley wheel section.The reason for that is so that i can "break down" the whole trolley when i need to store it away. If i had welded that end together it would of taken up to much room. The angle is 40x40mm and 3 - 4 mm thick. Hope that helps. Any other queries just ask!! Have fun....cheers..Johnno ;D ;D
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sorry people internet went down a week ago..
nice trolley john.. similar one to chris ryans one eh. i think ill be putting 4wd tyres on mine thou lol.. no concrete round here.. except in dads shed grrrrrr.. its ok i get the rest of the yard hahaha 6 beddys at home and mum is starting to get a bit on the annoyed side..
hey gary that sounds like a sweet idea tieing to the bar near the grill.. have to try that next time..
last time (on a van i cared a little more about) i made tough bracket to mount a bar off the bolted onto where the bumperets bolt onto..
didnt feel it was quite strong enough but it was definatly quick ay..
cheers
ben
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John, I am thrilled to bits to see your elegant solution to the engine removal question. It will help me with my own disassembly. Three questions...
1) does the trolly need to be 2m long? There seems to be an excess of 500mm which would interfere with the hoist if you wanted to roll the front end forward. I can't tell if this would have been possible. If not, how did you actually manoeuvre the front end out?
2) what is the purpose of elevating the rear wheels during this procedure?
3) would you have been able to return the front end, after removing the engine, and steer the beddy onto a car carrier trailer?
Regards, rubber.
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Hi Rubber....Answers to your questions....I spose the trolley doesn't need to be 2 metres long, it was the first time that i had made and used one. If you have a look at one of photos where we are starting to wheel the front end out, we just get it clear of the carby then we put 2 car stands under the chassis.Once those stands were in place, we could lower the hoist and the whole weight of the motor/gearbox/frontend was supported by the trolley and two front tyres.
So you just then grab the front wheels and roll the whole lot out of the way. As we had hired the engine hoist we did not know exactly how high we could get the body up so the owner of the van thought putting the back wheels up would give us a bit of extra height. It definately made getting in to undo things like exhaust/cross member/tailshaft/ ect alot easier. No probs with putting back under van minus the engine.If you could imagine it (without motor and box) as the body is sitting on the stands already, you can roll the front end back under,hook the hoist to the body,take out your stands and lower it down slowly so the 4 main front end bolts could be tightened up,and connect the steering components plus the "out rigger" bars to the chassis and your away!!!! cheers..Johnno ;D :D ;D :D ;D
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And you could stick your feet through the hole where the engine was and make like the Flintstones!
Thanks John for the clear explanation.
Rubber.
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if you cut the basket off a shopping trolly the base makes a great little dolly or v8 engine stand :)
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Flinstones..meet the Flintstones..la la lala la la great cartoon.lol cheers..johnno ;D