BUGA Community
Technical => Maintenance => Topic started by: Postie Bob on October 16, 2012, 08:34:09 PM
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I,ve just collected my `74 Bedmobile ( will put up some pics as soon as I work out how ??? ) .
My first question ( more to come ) is ... can I run the engine ( Holden 186 ) on unleaded fuel or do I need to use some kind of additive. If so , what is recommended? The `ol girl has been parked for around 5 yrs so should I do any sort of checks on the motor before I try to start it? could it have stuck valves / rings or whatever?
Any assist much appreciated.
Cheers , Bob.
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Hi Bob....Just use premium unleaded if you can afford it and drain any old fuel out of the tank before you start, ;D
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correct me if i'm wrong, but unless you've got hardened valve seats, shouldn't you use an additive each time you fill up?
i throw in 50ml of additive for every 50L of unleaded, regardless of octane....
Al
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correct me if i'm wrong, but unless you've got hardened valve seats, shouldn't you use an additive each time you fill up?
i throw in 50ml of additive for every 50L of unleaded, regardless of octane....
Al
You're not wrong. When I had the 186 I had to do the same. You can either add the additive each time you fill up or there's a system done by Morley's or at least they used to do one that you can set up in your engine bay that drips in into the intake and you just replace the bottle every xxxx miles.
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Sorry i should have given my reasons as well. All of the holden red motors that i have had , were all high milage motors so the worry of valve seat recession was not high on my list. I was told by an engine rebuilder many years ago that if i had a high k red motor by the time the valve seats were buggered it would be time for a rebuild so i could get the head modified for unleaded then. ;D I have been running the 173 in my truck for years on unleaded with no ill effects. But they are pretty hard to kill those buggers ;D ;D
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Had a 307 chev that used leaded fuel and when they stopped making it guys told me to just run premium fuel like bp ultimate like John said. Ran it like that for 3 years and sold it on and I never had a issue and neither did the new owners. Up to you at the end of the day anyway
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If your engine has not been turned over in a long time , remove spark plugs, put small amount of brake fluid in each cylinder (adout 1/2 egg cup in each) replace sparkplugs, let sit overnight. In morning remove coil wire or remove distributer rotor so engine will not start, wind engine over approx 3 rotations, replace coil wire or distributor rotor and start engine, do not rev, run approx 3 minutes, stop engine change oil and filter and all will be fine if it is a sound engine. Exhaust will smoke for a short time, try not to rev the guts out of it until you have replaced oil and had engine running, run engine up to temperature, switch off till it cools then repeat several times. I would recomend a new water pump,Use premium fuel
cheers Rogerfied
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interesting Rogerfield, have to ask why the brake fluid and how critical is the amount?
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Gidday, Ive been running all 3 of my toys on unleaded (95 octane) for well over 10 years now and been adding no additive and had no problems. Only problem I had was when it first came out and did use the additive it eventually made them all run crappy. Asked a mechanic about why they are running like shit and he asked if I put the additive in and I said I did, he said to stop because its 90% kerosine which has built up in your tanks and when you get low on gas you are trying to run your cars on kerosine hence why it runs like shit. So stopped years ago and everything has run fine ever since and still havent blown any engines up yet.
Cheers Jeff
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The amount is not critical, too much you will foul the plugs, not enough and you will not get full penetration past the piston rings. The brake fluid will work its way past the rings and help clean out the piston ring grooves as it penetrates. As brakefluid is Hydroscopic it will absorb moisture and the residue will lubricate. CRC type products repel water and leave an oily residue that heats up to fast when engine starts usually causing the rings to soften which could cause premature wear or fracture.
My old Holden Red 202 had sat for 12 years without being turned over once, used this precedure and engine fired up, smoked for awhile and now ticks over and runs sweet, no smoke or starting problems since.
I did replace the water pump as I suggested and added 1 cup of white vinegar (mild acid) as engine waterway was full of fine white powder from failing water pump, stuffed 2 auto dishwasher power ball tabs in radiator after initial start up which caused the old girl to hiss, burp and almost overheat. Stopped engine, removed therostat and gave engine good flush out with water after engine cooled. Reassembled with new thermostat, added some ultra cool and all is well, it might be old school but so are the bedfords.
Before you take an adventure and are going to fill the fuel tank add 1 litre of methylated spirits to your tank, it will absorb any condensation build up in the tank and burn while engine running. :)
cheers Rogerfied
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Thanks for the great input fella,s .
Haven,t heard of the `brake fluid trick` before , will give it a go.
1 more Q..... the dipstick in my 186 is broken off at the bottom. I suppose it,s laying around in the bottom of the sump somewhere ( bit of a worry :-\ ).
What is the oil capacity with & without filter for my motor?
I,m going to have to scrounge around for a workshop manual for my beast . I tried to download some stuff from the forum but my PC is slower than me . Maybe the local library could be the go.
Cheers , Bob.
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3.408 liters for engine and 0.852 liters for the filter...... T. at Holdenpedia
Personally I wouldn't worry about the dipstick in the sump.
I may be wrong, but can't imagine it being a problem. I had a piece in my sump for ages.
oldholden.com/ is better than a manual.
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Thanks Jeff.
Mine is broken off at the F for full mark . How much longer should it be?
Will do the rounds of the wreckers and try and find a replacement .
Cheers , Bob