BUGA Community
General Category => The Sump => Topic started by: John Abbott on October 07, 2012, 04:43:14 PM
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Hi everyone...I have been doing battle with a crankshaft pulley bolt on an old laser here. I have to replace a $19.00 oil seal that sits in the timing cover behind the harmonic balancer. I have removed the starter motor to get access the ring gear on the fly wheel. I made up a gadget that would sit inside and lock into the ringear teeth to stop the motor turning as i tried to undo the bolt. Got a good socket onto it with an extension but couldnt budge it. >:( My questions are ...Is it worth me buying a rattle gun to loosen it? How effective are they? and do you need a big compressor to run one? Your thoughts??? ???
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When all fails, I heat it up with my gas set, as it cools down, you will be able to undo it, ofcourse this applys, only if heat will not damange anything.
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Hi bas... have thought about that ,but dont have oxy at all so no go. :-[
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johnno can you not put a breaker bar on to the rachet handle? (hollow pipe extention) also if you have one that doesn't rachet ie welded or "breaker" one, just swivels .... there stronger..
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put a breaker bar on it brace it agaisnt the chasis turn the ignison key just click it it will crack the nut this is how we do it in the work shop, just dont start it pull coil lead off first
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Yep Cords ,,,tried the starter motor trick about 5 times even allowing a bit of a run up before hitting the chassis :-X
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Dano...I am using all of the stuff you mentioned. Even smacked the nut with a big heavy hammer. :(
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hey Johnno ive got a rattle gun and impact sockets if you need them gimme a ring cheers Neil
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Thanks buddy...Do they need alot of air to run hard ?
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It wouldn't be a left hand thread would it?
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Thought of that to Jeff ;) But checked the workshop manual just to be sure. Got a rattle gun from Merlin so will try that out tomorrow. :)
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It wouldn't be a left hand thread would it?
??? this passed through my mind as well jonno... ??? seem to recall that possibility somewhere in the past with my battle of the bolts..... i would verify that either way mate...
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Well i managed to get the Crank bolt finally undone. ;D The little bugger was on so tight that not even Merlins rattle gun would budge it . :-\ i had made up a little gadget to stop the motor turning which would bolt into the hole where the starter motor went and grab the ring gear but this was not enough. So i welded an old extension lever to the aircon pulley (This was able to be unbolted from the main pulley) and braced this up against the chassis. The last thing was a socket welded to a big arsed solid bar. I already had welded a socket for another job on it. So after putting everthing in place the bolt cracked straight away... ;D ;D
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa315/johnabbott_2007/Lasercrankbolt.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa315/johnabbott_2007/Crankboltholder.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa315/johnabbott_2007/Crankboltlever2.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa315/johnabbott_2007/Crankboltlever1.jpg)
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John
well done, you must be happy with your result, just imagine if you never owned a Bedford you probably would have given up.
cheers Rogerfied
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Yep pretty happy...All that bloody effort to replace a small oil seal that cost $19.00 ??? So far i have done 2 commodore and 1 ford crankbolt removals. The worst of all was the vn commy. Ridiculously tight!!!!
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hey johnno can you do my rear main seal ??? you'd be good at it.....only take you 5 min....
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Get angry with it Dano :D :D ;D ;D
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John
if you used a bar and the starter motor to budge the crank bolt it will pay to check the engine mounts as they might have partially torn if you got carried away in the moment of success :-\
cheers Rogerfied
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Good thought Rodge. ;) I will have to check that out ;D