BUGA Community
Technical => Driveline => Topic started by: russ on July 16, 2012, 07:03:28 PM
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Hi guys, I have just bought a 253 and traumatic for my conversion into the SWB CF. Can anyone advise me on how much, if any of the floor to "modify"? Is there a standard pattern out there anywhere? What else do I need to modify for a well engineered fit? I'll be using a Ben's Fibreglass engine cover.
Is there is a easy swap, correct length for the tail shaft? The van is currently a very asthmatic 202 trimatic, will this tail shaft be the correct length?
Any new hints and advise will be very welcome as I am new to the v8 conversion but quite handy at the same time. I might add I am using an after market telescopic tilt column with an enclosed auto shifter.
Is there anyone around who makes rust repair panel for Beddies?
Oh sh*t! while I'm bothering you all with questions, my CF is fitted with front disc brakes which seem to make the front end quite wide. The wheels are only 14 x 6 and yet they quite nearly fill the guards. Oddly, the rear end is quite the opposite, it looks like it's fitted with a HQ banjo rear end. Is this "normal"? What rear end would I use to fill up the narrow rear?
Thanks in advance, Russ
BTW-Any old S.A. Panel Van Club members out there? ( 1976-82)
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mate i have one already converted... i didnt do the work or the engineering, but i can take some pics for you if that will help.. let me know what you want to see.
what sort of wheel stud pattern is your van running.. i know my discs are off a hq holden, while my rear remains the standard bedford, therefore i have a different stud pattern front and back...
to change, the most common is to replace the rear with a holden but is definately narrower... hence staying with the bedford.. i am getting my alloy rims modified to fit the front.. (illegal but will work, and i trust my machinist)
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mine also has a 253 an traumatic trans onto a bedford "highway" diff, same thing let us know what you want specs or piccies of , will gladly oblige, this conversion also has all the compliance adhered to an is rego,d as bedddy with holden v8 in it...cheers .. skippy ;)
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Thanks guys, I was thinking it might be easier to come for a drive and look for myself but then I noticed how far away you are. I guess the main thing is the engine mounts. In some of the posts here Iv'e seen SBC swaps and the hugely modified mounting system. Is this required for a Holden V8 as I thought the humble red motor and early holden v8s were mounted the same? Could be wrong, but thats the most important thing to start with and the amount of trimming i need to do around the floor. A few good clear photos should help.
The rear end is a HQ Kingswood banjo and the frot seems to be HQ too. Perhaps just a set of 10 rims on the rear may have to do.
Russ
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where are you situated Russ?
have you got a price on the engineers certificate that you will need for the conversion yet?
im thinking of doing the same conversion but unsure of the cost in regards engineer certificate etc.
im pretty sure the tailshaft is same for v8 as 6cyl.
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The 253 will fit onto the 6 cylinder mounts. Only problem is, it puts the motor reasonably far forward, doesn't leave much room for radiator etc. The mount can be modified to move the motor back while still keeping a low profile engine cover. SBC conversion is just as easy, but with a lot more horsepower..
If you are in Vic, you need an engineer's certificate regardless of size of V8. Crate motor Chev's are pretty cheap..
Regarding the engine surround, there is no 'standard' size. Dropping the motor via lower mounts helps with a smaller engine cover & makes the exhaust & plugs easier to remove.. angle iron is good to use for the floor around engine, strong & easy to seal up well.
Re the rear end I would just use larger wheels, the greater diameter will drop the revs a little too.
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just had a gander at mine,... i have a 6 cm clearance between the waterpump and the radiator , which is a 3 core i just run 2 thermo fans behind it , also noticed that my oil pan has been cut back and rewelded to allow for the crossmember underneath, the top of the heads sit flush with the floor cutout. an only the rocker covers ,carby, etc protrude above the floor level, plug changing takes place from beneath the engine bay, the cutout goes fairly close to the steering column, my left foot sits behind the column, ,one gets used to that lol .... ;)
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your engine mounts might be for a 6cyl skippy.
because the V8 van i have here has 10cm clearance.
ive checked the mounts on the front end on it and they are different to the 6cyl ones
here,s a few pics=
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll265/marty23121961/P1016013.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll265/marty23121961/P1016014.jpg)
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Hi team, thanks for the info. I live in lovely Wagga. Would love to catch up some time.
I read some where yesterday I should use a sump from a LH torana, if I can find one, otherwise my HQ one will get the old chop chop.
There is a dude in Canberra who will do engine swap engineering quite cheaply if the engine mount stubs on the cross member don't have to be modified. One of the guys in my club Wagga rod and Custom thinks around $600 should see it done. It cost me $1500 to get my hot rod engineered locally so $600 is not so bad.
I already have the 253 and trimatic which is also my engine/ trans choice for economy reasons, as it will give me added torque over the 202 for towing a caravan and the V8 noise is a BIG bonus.
Thanks heaps for taking the time to take the photo's for me and for the advice.
I will take a photographic history during the restoration of the van and will post the progress as I go. Iv'e got to say that once I started to strip back the old layers of paint (and bog) I was very dissapointed with the amount of rust found particularly around the roof and behind the rear wheels. It's off to the local sandblaster next weekend to find anything I have missed.
However, if I plug away I hope to have it on the road within 12 months or so. ($ permitting)
Russ 18/7/12
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Good luck with it all Russ, it's a very good combo for towing that you picked, I ran that combo for 5 years before changing the auto to a t700 for that one more gear for the free way. You shouldn't see a massive surge in fuel use either I found I use as much as the 202 I guess because your not booting the hell out of it to hit 100 with a trailer on the back :)
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Thats right Jason, the 253 is as good on fuel as the 202 but with that bit extra omph!. At the moment there is gas fitted to the old six so when the time comes I will probably do the dual fuel thing. The research Iv'e done suggests not to change the cam too much as it makes the engine flat spot a bit and won't like the change in fuel either. I put sequencial (spelling?) gas injection on my NL Pajero Fuel injected V6 and it is awesome. I lost no power at all but gained a lot more $ in my pocket at the end of each week.
I'm off to my local wreckers tomorrow to try to find a different style of tail light for the van. I don't really have any idea what I'm looking for yet but I suppose I'll know when I find them. Those cordless grinders are just the thing for wrecking yard excursions.
Catch ya all later. Russ
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i bought another bedford van tonight that was a V8 ford conversion, less motor n g/box.
just for parts, has HQ disk brake front n highway diff, custom dash , custom bonnet etc.
the shell is pretty much a looks like a buckshot duck.
so after i strip her of all the good bits its beddy heaven im affraid.
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awww come on mty.... cant you turn the shell into some elaborate kind of post box at the end of your driveway or something ??? ::) ::) ;)
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lol, the neighbours think im nuts now,
and if i did that it would confirm their suspitions, lol, :D :D :D ;)
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Hey Russ in relation to the cam for gas I got a mild gas cam installed when the engine was rebuilt along with hardened valves, seats and double row valve springs and it runs very good. Good power right through the rev range and it's still only running a two barrel strongburg with top hat mixer. Plan to up grade to a 4 barrel in the future but when it's not stuffed don't stuff with it hey.
I am a big fan of gas now and the systems just getting better. My old man has a vy clubby r8 and that has a gas research liquid gas injection system on it, and because gas tends to run a bit too lean in higher rpm on the ls1 this system flicks back to petrol after 4000 rpm when you are booting it and once you ease off the throttle it flcks back to gas with no pause or power loss at all. The car makes 276 rwkw on the gas so it's a top system but we bought the car with it on it so we didn't have to foot the $5000.00 bill that the previous owner did lol. But I think it's a great system and means you can drive a quick car every day and not burn a massive hole in your pocket.
Good luck on the light search too be sure to let us know what you pick
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Hi again, Iv'e just been playing in the shed and noticed the 253 I have does not have any engine mounts or block brackets. Can any one inform me which block brackets to buy and which mounts. There are so many combinations out there from HT right the way through to VK, but there has to be a standard combination which will fit a Beddie.. Russ
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HQ to WB make sure you put em on the right sides ( they are left and right sided) cheers Merlin