BUGA Community
Technical => Electrics, Audio and Security => Topic started by: middi on September 29, 2011, 01:27:07 PM
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Can anyone help?
I`m putting breaderless ignition on my 253, I have to remove the ballist resistor, is that in the standard dizzy coil, or else where on the vechicle ???
Cheers
middi
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The Ballast resistor is usually found on the firewall.....it looks like a white ceramic block, similar to an
old house electrical plug in fuse [without the fuse wire in it].....ballast resistors were uses originally to compensate for the differing wiring setup from vauhal to holden i belive
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The way it was explained to me was that a ballast resistor in serries with the coil was there to reduce the voltage to the coil to 6 or 8 volts. This was to stop the points from burning out. When I got my cf (many years ago) mine had 2 one white ceramic one wired incorrectly and one in the form of a resistance wire in the loom. Neither did a good job so removed both and fitted a 12volt non ballasted coil as mine had a breakerless ignition system. In 21 years I have had the van have never had a problem.
Cheers Jeff
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Thanks for the reply guy`s : )
MIne is running 12 volts to the coil, so I guess it doesn`t have a ballist resistor ?
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is the van running or not because with the van running it should be more like 14.5v from the alt. but yes sounds like you dont have one.
ben
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Ben Thanks
Hit the wrong key before : )
It`s sending 12.45volts to the coil, if this is wrong what would be the problem, it lacks power also
middi
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this is an issue close to my heart! I converted my '73 campervan to a Pertronix Ignitor II, after good experiences with the original Ignitor in another vehicle. The Ignitor II has been a hassle to the point that the unit has been sent back to the USA, and I've gone back to points! I eventually hope to fit an original Ignitor (not the fancy Ignitor II) to the vehicle.
However, in this process I have learned a bit about Bedford CF wiring. Both the 1973 and 1978 Bedfords I have use a resistive wire between the firewall and the coil. It's easily identifiable as it's PINK! This will deliver close to full voltage when cold, but will drop as temps warm, as it's designed to do.
For breakerless ignition, if it requires full voltage, bypass this wire completely. The coil will also need to be changed to avoid excessive current. If the primary of your coil measures around 1.5 ohms, replace it for a 'non-resistor' type coil which will have a primary resistance of about 3 ohms.
Have fun. And stay away from the Ignitor II. Your Bedford simply won't idle properly!
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use one from a blue 253 motor and matching coil..
wb holden etc.
dont get aftermarket crap..
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I wish it was that simple. Advance curves are all wrong for a start...
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The original idea behind the ballast resistor was to drop the voltage to about 9volts at the coil when the motor was running (because they were using 9volt coils). But the the ballast resistor was bypassed when cranking the motor over to start so as to get the full voltage at the coil. (this was usually about 10.5 to 11volts because the battery would typically drop to this while the motor was cranking). By doing this it gave a stronger spark to aid starting.
I hope this helps you?