BUGA Community
General Category => Members Rides => Topic started by: doofhard on September 03, 2008, 03:54:36 PM
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Bedford Plan
Remove front end and sandblast/powdercoat
Rebuild front end with new bushes/ball joints/arms etc
Add all bolt ons (alt/dizzy/starter/elec water pump/power steer pump/extractors(block huggers) Gilmer belt drive)
Fit 400 chev Engine and Turbo 400 Gearbox (moved back and dropped inches) Powdercoat gearbox crossmember
Fit Radiator/thermos/trans cooler
Source and fit Tailshaft
Brakes???
Power Steering Fitted
Diff (new seals and service - possible change of centre
Bolt on Ebay Prices (most are chrome)
• Electric Water Pump $195
• Starter Motor $125
• Dizzy and coil
• Gilmer Belt Drive Kit $150
• Block Hugger Headers $165
• Power Steering Pump
• 100 Amp Alt $150
Also needed all mounting brackets
Wheels 15 x 10's back and 15 x 8's front (need to talk to my engineer about this and make sure this is ok)
Hopefully at this stage I can have wired up with existing wiring then when the interior and dash are done have it re wired
RWC on petrol
Register
covert to straight gas
be happy for a while
Any advice on said steps very much appreciated.
What do we think of that?
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my advice is not to fit a gilmer belt drive. especially not a cheapy $150 one.
for a few reasons.mainly because you can never get the belts anywhere when you need one.
also the cheap ones are never cast very good and tend to not sit square.
if the balancer is slighty off compared to the altenator by even a slight amount it will chew out the belt. you can get some nice looking v belt pullys and things which i think is a much better idea.
i've put a few on in the past and they have always been trouble....
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cheers for that, room may have been more of an issue with them too
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yeh let us know how things go with the 10" and 8" wheels getting them engineered..
ben
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doof
why are you regoing the van and then converting to straight gas ?
why not do it first off ?
Warren
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It may not be done that way but I thought it would be easier to get the government rebate like that
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Also my last engine a 308 Hj pannelvan which made 200 hp at the rear wheels had issues with not enough gas to make power at high revs. This was an imco 425 straight gas set up.
I want to find out if it's possible to make an adapter plate so I can run 2 because the chev will probably be 300 or so at the wheels
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doofhard your out of control!!!
im lucky to make it up some hills with my 5 cylinder black beddy and your talking about 300hp at the rear wheels!!!..
far out!!
ben
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Doof, If you get yourself a dual carbie valley inlet manifold you can just put two 425 impco mixers straight on!
Something like this.
(http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/images/brands/edelbrock/ED54254.jpg)
Website.
http://www.rocketindustries.com.au (http://www.rocketindustries.com.au)
Or this if it will fit.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180286674098&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1123 (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180286674098&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1123)
Cheers
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Oh baby that looks sexy. And yeah Ben gotta be able to get up those hills
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Doof,
Where are you at with your list? Have you done any of this yet?
I'm gonna hound you like an annoying girlfriend LOL
Encouragement is the key my friend!
Cheers
Jd
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Haha - poor Doof all the nagging and none of thr "fringe" benifits :D
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Arrgggghhhh geeeeez Warren you got me ROFLMHO!!! hahahaha LOL Jd
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Bedford Plan
Remove front end and sandblast/powdercoat
Rebuild front end with new bushes/ball joints/arms etc
Add all bolt ons (alt/dizzy/starter/elec water pump/power steer pump/extractors(block huggers) Gilmer belt drive)
Fit 400 chev Engine and Turbo 400 Gearbox (moved back and dropped inches) Powdercoat gearbox crossmember
Fit Radiator/thermos/trans cooler
Source and fit Tailshaft
Brakes???
Power Steering Fitted
Diff (new seals and service - possible change of centre
Bolt on Ebay Prices (most are chrome)
• Electric Water Pump $195
• Starter Motor $125
• Dizzy and coil
• Gilmer Belt Drive Kit $150
• Block Hugger Headers $165
• Power Steering Pump
• 100 Amp Alt $150
Also needed all mounting brackets
Wheels 15 x 10's back and 15 x 8's front (need to talk to my engineer about this and make sure this is ok)
Hopefully at this stage I can have wired up with existing wiring then when the interior and dash are done have it re wired
RWC on petrol
Register
covert to straight gas
be happy for a while
Any advice on said steps very much appreciated.
What do we think of that?
I thought about it alot. lol
Na seriously that plan was when I was making alot of money in W.A. It's been put on the back burner for too long so i've decided to start on the body work myself at home. My best mate just painted his bus and i've seen alot of guys here get alot of stuff done so it's time to progress.
And Warren :P
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Yes, yes, yes, I mean Doof, Doof, Doof! ;D
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Poor Doof!!!
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thats gunna be a mad van when its finished doofhard,
wat u going to do bodywise?
front , flares etc.
marty
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Well first job is to see what I can do with the roof, then i'll hit the back need to modify where the tail lights are as I want 3 round clear looking LED ones. Working my way forward I think I'm just going to rub it back a few coats (not sure how many times it's been painted) Plating any rust I find and I want to get rid of the seams. I still will need front flares to match the back.
Still not sure exactly what I want to do to the front. I really liked the idea of the VK Bathurst spoiler but i'm having trouble getting one. The front will be the most difficult hence why i'll leave it to the end. I'm going to a speciallty paint shop today to discuss some ideas when I get back i'll put there websire up so you can see the sort of thing i'm thinking. I'll put the 2K primer on in my driveway but I really want it sprayed in a booth for the colour and clear.
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What grit sandpaper should I use to rub back?
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depends on how far ur going, if going back to metal or not,
240,360,800,
marty
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The original plan was to go back to metal but the paint on it is quite good really. I just want to take it back quite a bit so there isn't 26 coats of paint on it and then put a 2k primer on it
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if all the coats are different kinds of paint id go 2 metal.
acrilic doesnt go well under 2k unless its old as,
if there,s any acrilic under there u can get crows feet and cracking 2k.
sinkbacks and frying edges are a prob as well if u expose lots of different layers
marty
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Yeah but my body work isn't perfect and i'm sure i'm going to be finding alot of supprises underneath. I'll see how I go when it wheels out of the shed and I start. 1 panel at a time
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do it camo like me doofhard then the bodywork dont need to be that great,
my LWB is straight as though. and white 2k, just needs a very minor tidy up.
blend in with the earth, :), thats my plan, when im out camping in the rainforests, bush. , nature will come closer, ill be able 2 take some great still,s, and vidio footage of wildlife. etc, when i get 2 travel again, my soul is crying out 2 be free of this concrete, polluted scar on the earth. and mainstream society.im lucky i can ground myself every day, im actually building my own rainforrest, lol. just useing lots of quick growing vines and willows, tortured and weeping , my sisters boyfriend said something that made me think on christmas day, ( that was the first time he has walked barefoot through the lawn anywhere in months)he recons he could feel the static energy draining out through his feet, he lives in a flat in harbord, nsw. sorry for the babbling on that last bit, gettin carried away in my dreams again. :)
marty
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I'm hoping to roll the beddy out of the shed tomorrow. Got all my treated pine sleepers lined up ready to put down tomorrow and had a massage on my back today and tis feeling alot better.
Been looking and thinking beddy alot lately.
1 thing i'm still trying to work out how to do is the tail lights. As in how to make that sort of standard flairout where standard lights go, smooth. Looking at the lines of the body has confused me but maybe tomorrow in the light it might make more sense of a how too.
By the way Marty pretty sure the main part of my van is going to be orange with some sort of funky lower design being ina special reactive effect paint.
At some stage in the future i'll be looking into a fibreglass bonnet too, be interested to see what the wrx scoop looks like but was thinking more along the lines of a hornet scoop. Thats gotta look tough.
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I lent Ben my bonnet with a wrx scoop moulded on, to make a fibrelass bonnet mould, going by the other posts appears hes pretty busy with the rear doors though, take a peek at my gallery for the wrx scoop moulded onto the bonett .... watch your back Doofs pushing the van out, doesn't take much to throw it out again, I usually put my back up against one of the rear panels and only push using leg strength bit hard on your quads but saves strain on your back, keep your back straight nad hard up against the corner of the panel where it meets the door, go slowly and you should be alright ;)
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Glad 2 hear ur backs better, look after that , u will need it later in life, im just finding out how stupid i was not looking after mine, :( 2 late now as well.)
u only get she standard one guaranteed to wear out within 50 to 80 years with prev measures.
the lines of a hornet scoop. Thats gotta look tough.Yeah!!
that was my first choice but finding it hard finding 1.
yeah buy a winch n winch it in and out the shed, lew the winch n battery do the hard stuff.
marty,
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id like to see a hornt scoup on a beddy ay doofhard!
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Yep decided to leave it till after new years to roll her out. Would of cried if I couldn't bust some moves at new Years events. Winch could be a great idea might have a gander on ebay. Maybe a pulley system might be easy enough
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Yeah Doof Doof would be Duff Duff with no muff muff if he did a huff an puff to move an old pile of rugh stuff
A nuff nuff
Warren
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The new temp driveway is down. I posted a pic in my gallery. So now all I need is air in the tires and there is no excuses.
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crikey Doofs, had a look at your pic, don't run off the boards or you will do your back pushing the van through the slush, be careful bro
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looken good bro!
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Well she's half way out of the shed i've pulled off the fibreglass on the roof and yep you were right Ben underneath is timber. I really don't know what to think of it. Photos added to gallery again.
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its ok.. at least we know what were working with now ay!!
ben
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lookin good doofhard,
what kinda roof u thinking of puttin up there?
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Hmmmmm
Ben wants me to put a SWB roof on it. I don't know yet
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if possible I would go the metal roof be it long or swb
How will the flat top go re engineer?
Only reason I ask is, was looking at a morris minor convertible a couple of years ago for the wife,
it had a top chop (being a convertible that means chop the windscreen pillars only)
Had arguements with mechanics that it was only a cosmetic change but too no avail then went searching for an engineer only to be told there was no code # for such a mod and he therefore couldn't cert it as there was no # and he couldn't issue a cert without a #
went back to mechanic and he said no cert no rwc
Then found another engineer who said bullshit! doesn't need a cert as it is only cosmetic and that he would get a rwc for it from a guy who specialised in hotrods.
By which time the car had sold, BUGA
1st Mechanic also said car would also need a rigidity/ flex test (or something of that nature) which runs into $k's
(sorry about the long story)
How if at all will these types of issues effect you if you put the flat top back on?
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I've already spoken to the guy i'll be using for engineers. Bedfords are too old to have to comply with any of those sort of standards
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Me thinks your engineer is giving you a bum steer ALL licensed motor vehicles must comply with relevant ADR's regardless of age by removeing the steel roof you will have lost a lot of torsional rigidity (they are already flimsy in this area from factory)combine that with that animal of a motor your puting in it you will have one scary handling beddy there dude!!!!!! :o :o
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Don't stress I'll have add all the torsional rigidity I will need!
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I never thought the beddy was 2 pac. It is so now I have for the most part a good base
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ANOTHER GOOD WAY TO GET HORSEPOWER WITH GAS AND SAVE IS TO USE A COUPLE OF THROTLE BODIES OF A FUEL INJECTED. I'VE SEEN THIS SET UP RUN A 351 BLOWN, AND THERE WAS NO PROBLEM WITH GETTING THE GAS THREW. THEY ARE A SMART MANS GAS RESEARCH CARB