BUGA Community
Technical => Driveline => Topic started by: ben on February 28, 2011, 08:20:19 PM
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anyone ever got to replace timing gear while the engines still in the van? me and dennis found out today rockers not moving dizzy not moving while cranking. so asuming its timing gear is busted? ran out of oil.
if ive gotta pull this motor out its not going back in thats why i say that.
cheers for the help:)
ben
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Sorry only done while motor was out, as done at time of rebuild, but see know reason why as long as you can obtain access............ Mk 2 easy as whole front removes, and so it did on my Mk 1(the middle section) but don't no if this is standard. The motor in the camper is mounted in such a way I can drop the sump while still bolted up to the mounts.
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Ben
I did on Boris a while a go - before I knew the lift the body trick.
I had to drop the rear engine mount to get the angle to be able to pull it past the grill.
If I was to do it again I would just lift the body up till the gear housing was below the bottom of the front, and then do it in place - ie: don't roll it out.
That would be quicker than trying to do it up in place.
Warren
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Ben if chain broken you'll more then likely have to drop the sump to get all the bits out, and if the chain broke while you were driving might want to take the head off to check all the valves
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ok thanks for your input.
well looks like motor will be coming out. my sump is wrong one and only just sits in there. (off a hq) when beddy sumps were off an eh i think..
last time i had to get a hq sump out (was hitting frnt crossmember) i had to cut it out with an angle grinder! couldnt get enough lift of the engine and just would not clear everything.. thats when i put an eh sump back on it.. and it has like an inch of clearance..
cheers
ben
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Correct me if im wrong ,but the early LC and LJ torana sumps can be used as well. ;D ;D
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Correct me if im wrong ,but the early LC and LJ torana sumps can be used as well. ;D ;D
Yes John, you are correct, the torana is the one to use at least 2" clearance from beam and rack, thats what I have on mine, although the motor is factory fitted, when I got it it had the HQ sump that someone had beaten with a hammer to clear the back of the beam. don't forget to use the pickup as well or change the one you have as I did.
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I dont know where the EH sump info came from but the standard sump in a bedford is from the HQ if it is hitting the xmember the caster rods are adjusted to far back also correct me if im wrong but the holden red runs helical gears and not a chain (its been a while since ive played with one ) Cheers Neil
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I did mine in place back in 2007 on my 186. Comming back from the nats in Tauranga noticed it was very knocky low down in revs. Pulled over and put more oil in but still made no difference so went with well it still runs lets get it back to christchurch. Next day mechanic said it sounded like 2 and a half teeth are missing from the timing cog. Didn't want to take the bloody motor out so made enquires round town about the possibility of doing in place. And it can be, first remove grill, headlight sourrounds, radiator etc. Next remove fan and timing cover, sure enough 2 and a half teeth missing from fibre gear, another half tooth and we would have bee stuck on the side of the road going nowhere. Fibre timing cog was hard to remove even with puller so got grinder with cutting disk and carefully cut it off the cam shaft. removed the steel one with a puller no probs, just had to undo engine mounts and jack up motor until it was in slot in spoiler so puller could be undone with socket. Then purchased a new gear set, aluminum and steel. some were against aluminum saying they are noiser, were at first but after about a year there is no difference noise wise. now on to refitting, the lower one was hammered on with a block of wood and a hammer through the slot in the spoiler. The top aluminum one was advised not to hammer on as it is the cam shaft and will run the risk of breaking the dizzy drive and oil pump drive if i did. Was advised to drill the end of the cam shaft in place and thread it to M10 with a tap. This done get a selection of m10 bolts and washers and gradualy tighten up the bolt to pull the gear on. Suggest you use mild steel bolts as the threads strip and you need to replace them after every 2nd or 3rd time and rather than strip the thread in the cam its better to strip the thread in the bolt. About 5 to 7 bolts later and a bit of patience it was on and has been for the last 3 years no problems.
Hope this helps, maybe a bit of pissing around but still better than taking the motor out.
Cheers Jeff
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also correct me if im wrong but the holden red runs helical gears and not a chain (its been a while since ive played with one ) Cheers Neil
Yes I think your correct as far as I remember all earlier holden sixes do - grey, red, blue, black.
Also I pulled the complete cam out and had the new gear pressed on.
Warren
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I dont know where the EH sump info came from but the standard sump in a bedford is from the HQ if it is hitting the xmember the caster rods are adjusted to far back also correct me if im wrong but the holden red runs helical gears and not a chain (its been a while since ive played with one ) Cheers Neil
it might not be EH sump i just thought thats what the local mechanic said i needed. and all the standard beddy motors had em.. he seemed to think they were hard to come by these days. well the motor i got out of a hq had the wrong sump i had to bash to get it to clear beddy x member.
ben
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the 253 within my beloved, has a red sump pan on it that has been cut back an rewelded so that it clears the xmember, if need can post some pics of it if anyone wishes to perouse its architecture. ..there.. thats my two bobs worth thrown in ;)