BUGA Community
Technical => Driveline => Topic started by: jesus_is_alright on November 21, 2010, 02:48:34 PM
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So, mock fitted up my new US Indy's to my Banjo diff (both HQ pattern) and had a bit of fun aligning the wheel to get the nuts on.
Now i realize it's because the back of the mag has a sorta stepped hub hole. ie, the first section is around 96mm diameter, and the second section that goes thru the whole wheel is smaller (pressumably the same as the hq hub)
but the HQ hub does not extend far enough out the drum face to mate up with the second smaller diameter hub-hole (as can be seen in the 2nd, photo, no hub can be seen in the wheel centre)
So the rear wheels are only being held on by the wheels nuts, whereas the stock rims are held on by the wheel nuts and the snug fit of the hub centre.
Is this a safety issue? do i need some hub rings? Why are the centre holes staggered in size?
Now looking at the front, where i have standard bedford setup, the bedford bearing cap does not mate up with the front wheels so it is only the wheel nuts holding the front wheels on. Is this safe? it must be as every bedford is like this. Are there different rules for front and back?
On the plus side of all of this, if this is all safe, the staggered centre holes will clear the front wheel bearing covers and i can look at the possibility of keeping the front drums, and re-studding them to HQ to do a simple and quick changeover.
Any help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks guys
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This image from the net shows what i mean when i say the hub centre doesnt mate up with the wheel
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Aron
I'm not sure how much of a saftey issue it is, but as you correctly said normally the wheels will sot on the bolts and the shoulder to ensure the wheel is centred.
The reason they dont do it on your mags is obviously they have been made for a fifferent diff with a larger locating shoulder.
You could have some spacer (rings) machined up to be on the safe side.
Sorry cant be of much more help
Warren
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None of my wheels have ever sat on a 'shoulder' or any other kind of protrusion. They are held on by the lug nuts and studs only and centre when you do them up. That goes for both my cars and van.
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Some early cars had a flat centre, and used the nuts only to centre it as Roughe has said, l've had cars pass roadworthy's, engineers and my own tests, like this ;D
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i'm sure i posted a reply to this ... oh well
Make sure the mag wheel nuts are the right size, these indys/ansens are usually ok but thinner mags the mag wheel nuts can bottom out allowing the mag to float. to check put your mag wheel nut through the mag, it should not come out the back, if it does get shorter ones, dont use more washers
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That's interesting Busy.
What is wrong with more washers?
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i'm sure i posted a reply to this ... oh well
Make sure the mag wheel nuts are the right size, these indys/ansens are usually ok but thinner mags the mag wheel nuts can bottom out allowing the mag to float. to check put your mag wheel nut through the mag, it should not come out the back, if it does get shorter ones, dont use more washers
I'm using the 1 washer supplied with the nut, and there's plenty of meat in the mag so they're not bottoming out.
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the washer will squash up, whitch will alloy movement, which will brake the wheel studs, whitch can cause a major chain reaction. Wheel comes off, wreck the panels etc.......
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the washer will squash up, whitch will alloy movement, which will brake the wheel studs, whitch can cause a major chain reaction. Wheel comes off, wreck the panels etc.......
Depends what the washer is made of. I've been using the ones supplied with my alloy wheels for years and never had a problem and you would have to use a washer anyway otherwise you would gouge out around the lug nut hole on alloy wheels everytime you did them up which would in itself cause issues after some time.
I think Busy means using a stack of washers to pack them out.
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Thanks, I have two washers on some of mine maybe I should grind some more off the bottoms of the lug nuts.
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how many do you have on their Rogue, cos their ment to have one, so the nut don't bind into the mag unless you have tappered nuts cos then you don't need them
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how many do you have on their Rogue, cos their ment to have one, so the nut don't bind into the mag unless you have tappered nuts cos then you don't need them
The ones supplied with the wheels. 1 for each lug nut.
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So, mock fitted up my new US Indy's to my Banjo diff (both HQ pattern) and had a bit of fun aligning the wheel to get the nuts on.
Now i realize it's because the back of the mag has a sorta stepped hub hole. ie, the first section is around 96mm diameter, and the second section that goes thru the whole wheel is smaller (pressumably the same as the hq hub)
but the HQ hub does not extend far enough out the drum face to mate up with the second smaller diameter hub-hole (as can be seen in the 2nd, photo, no hub can be seen in the wheel centre)
So the rear wheels are only being held on by the wheels nuts, whereas the stock rims are held on by the wheel nuts and the snug fit of the hub centre.
Is this a safety issue? do i need some hub rings? Why are the centre holes staggered in size?
Now looking at the front, where i have standard bedford setup, the bedford bearing cap does not mate up with the front wheels so it is only the wheel nuts holding the front wheels on. Is this safe? it must be as every bedford is like this. Are there different rules for front and back?
On the plus side of all of this, if this is all safe, the staggered centre holes will clear the front wheel bearing covers and i can look at the possibility of keeping the front drums, and re-studding them to HQ to do a simple and quick changeover.
Any help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks guys
looks alright to me
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so where are the pics jesus.
george.
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so where are the pics jesus.
george.
Well i just bought some 15x8.5's and are getting polishes atm, so look out for those pics soon, but i'll post some in my gallery today
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so where are the pics jesus.
george.
Well i just bought some 15x8.5's and are getting polishes atm, so look out for those pics soon, but i'll post some in my gallery today
curious on what the polishers are charging you per rim , as I still have all my polishing gear but its been a few years.
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so where are the pics jesus.
george.
Well i just bought some 15x8.5's and are getting polishes atm, so look out for those pics soon, but i'll post some in my gallery today
curious on what the polishers are charging you per rim , as I still have all my polishing gear but its been a few years.
The 15x10's were $60 per rim, which i thought were quite reasonable
Before and after pics
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yes its a good price Thats what we were charging ten years ago.
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yes its a good price Thats what we were charging ten years ago.
I'm guessing the 5 slots are nice and easy to polish, as there are no really fiddly bits, thats why it was pretty cheap. anything like hurricanes or hotwires would be a different story
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nothing is easy to polish. Take a rim say 10kg max and hold it on a buff at 4500rpm and slip and you stuff the rim, too much pressure and you burn it, too hard and you catch the buff cloth and it rips otta your hand most polishers have arms like gorillas.
And there is a multitude of different types of polish finishes Its physically demanding and a very underestimated profession.
The metal finishing and electroplating industries in Australia are the only industries that have regressed in pricing so much that soon there wont be any.
sorry gotta get off my soap box.
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are dragway 5 spokes able to be polished up the same?
was going to paint them, but why spend half a day painting when i can spend half a week polishing.......
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yes BUT as you probably know they are a two pce wheel the center 5 spoke is polished alloy the rim is plain chrome plated you cant machine polish the chrome rim. You can have them taken apart and the get the rims re chromed and centers polished the put back together.
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No, didn't know that, mine are so badly gone i didn't notice