BUGA Community
General Category => Members Rides => Topic started by: delrazor on May 06, 2010, 10:33:12 AM
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It is with great pleasure that I can start a thread in the members rides section.
Yesterday the deal was struck fast, and by 4pm I had a Bedford sitting in front of my workshop.
I am a prolific forum user and hope folks understand that at this stage I am more full of questions than my 2 year old.
(http://blogpress.w18.net/photos/10/05/05/s_1593.jpg)
I'll list my immediate issues for reference....
1) Brakes. Drums all round. I am happy with well set up drum brakes, but these arent. If fixing them up will cost a fortune I may as well go for a disc conversion. There are 2 new rotors in boxes (pics later) in the back that may be handy. I am hoping the booster diaphram is broken so replacing it becomes a miracle fix.
2) Clutch is VERY stiff. I have done a search here and will try ans look at the lever. As with the brakes, if the tranny has to come out I may as well do the trimatic conversion at that time.
3) porn it up. I love it and as soon as it is all transferred, on the road and safe I'll start formulating a plan... and evil plan mwahaha.
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Just checked the engine. It is painted red and the number starts with VL. The site I looked up has VL for a commodore, but which one? the number is VL09701.
Any tips on a number search?
cheers
derek
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transmission says "BORG WARNER"
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must be a borg wagner 5 speed box..
discs are much better..
ben
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the dreadful paintwork comes up trumps with some cutting goo.
tomorrow ill get the colour matched and made into some spray cans. Then i can repair some bits.
I took a photo when I had done half the bonnet.
(http://blogpress.w18.net/photos/10/05/06/303.jpg)
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looks a treat
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nice score
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the van or the small child??
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Little Tom loves the van more than I do. The PO has built in many little hidey holes for camping storage and the lad tears around in there hiding my tools.
I had my first proper drive of it tonight and I was wondering what I can do about the gearstick. The clutch is ridiculously stiff (PO broke two cables) but I can deal with that. What I don't like is the range of movement in the gearstick. It is a huge curved thing (the BW box must mean the hole is way back compared to normal). When in 1st, 3rd and 5th the stick is nearly out of reach, and when in 2nd and 4th it is right back almost behind me.
I guess the question is can I re-configure the linkage to make it all a bit tighter?
cheers
derek
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ive seen a linkage setup made from a tie rod end on the floor up near where you want it and bar so it comes up where is comftable..
i sold the conversion to marky i think.. ask him for some photos was a really neat setup..
ben
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my van is manual atm and has a big stick and and the stick goes back too its kinda awkward at first but im sorta use to it now but the six slugga will be removed as of next friday and 307 chev straight cant wait and then ill finish decking her out
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Today I got some good news.
Went to abs brakes to get the word on my braking system (not stopping well). I nearly fell off my sneakers when I was told they were ok. Cylinders OK, master, booster, rear drums and shoes...all OK. The only issue is getting the front shoes re-bonded a bit oversize to get adjustment back. 200 bucks. I was expecting well over a thousand and to celebrate have asked for a new clutch and shifter bush.
To top that off there are a pair of new HQ discs in the back of the van ready for when I am ready to convert.
Went to smack converters for a cheap radio for the overhead console, and I am ready to roll.
derek
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make sure when u do the hq conversion that u get it done right if u dont do it right it will bite ya in the ass,
u will do injury to the van and maybe injure yourself too which we dont want that cos u will end up adventurely doing a stub axle i did one in my van cos someone didnt do it right
someone else on here did a stub axle too and trust me not good when it happens to ya
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Well yesterday I picked the van up from ABS.
200 bucks to get the brakes up to scratch (as good as drums get)
500 for a new clutch.
much more pleasant drive now.
things to do...
-sort out idle speed (stalled every stop for ten minutes of driving, then was ok)
-get gas working - both solenoids are making a noise when turned on, the meter on the bottle shows half full. Still wont run at all on gas.
-small puddle from windscreen rubber (I think)
-mount radio (there's a console but the radio holder has been torn out by naughty boys.
-Get rear seats - looking for top quality for the kids, maybe a vito one.
-move gas bottle from 'under the sink' to under the car. Currently it sits inside, against the drivers side wall where my rear seats should go.
- rwc
- colour match and pressure packs made up.
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...
-get gas working - both solenoids are making a noise when turned on, the meter on the bottle shows half full. Still wont run at all on gas.
Check that the gas is turned on at the cylinder, also check wiring to the solenoids making sure they are correctlly switching.
From Memory they are normally closed valves, the master control switch should have 3 settings "GAS", "OFF" & "PETROL".
With the master control switch set to "GAS" when you switch on the ignition the gas solenoid switches on for a "set time" and then switches of if the motor hasn't started - this is a saftey feture to stop excesive amounts of gas leaking out when the ignition is left turned on without the engine running.
In the "OFF" position neither of them should be on, this setting is used when switching from Petrol to Gas and allows for the petrol in the carby bowl to be used up before switching to gas, if you switch over too quickly you will have to rich a mixture (combined petrol & gas).
In the "Petrol" position only the petrol solenoid should be active.
Note - the "OFF" position can be used as an anty thieft devices
Warren
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bad earths on the gas solinods usually does it or bad earth on the saftey box.. pull the gas hose off carby then stick it near your ear and turn key to ignition only, see if there is any gas flow..
also any air leaks on and around the carby to air cleaner can cause it to fail where petrol will still run..
ben
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Thanks Ben.
It feels like the converter solenoid is turning on then straight off again (split second). There is no gas at all getting to the carb.
I don't really have the budget for a specialist right now. Nor do I want to mess with gas.
I have shut off the gas at the tank.
I want to put the tank underneath as it is in the way of installing back seats, so I would like to know if the system is ok before spending bucks having it moved.
derek
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That's what the solenoides are supposed to do for safty until the motor starts then they will stay on all the time until you turn the motor off What you need is a primer button that holdes the solenoids on they are for cold weather starting Chyeers Reid
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I would like to know how it was used for the last ten years if it needs another button.
I am definitely missing something here, as it dies when I switch it over from petrol as soon as the bowl runs out.
the plot thickens
derek
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heres the converter....
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It feels like the converter solenoid is turning on then straight off again (split second). There is no gas at all getting to the carb.
I don't really have the budget for a specialist right now. Nor do I want to mess with gas.
gas is safer than pertol.. you have at least 2 shut off valves in a gas system sometimes 3.. tanks are double skinned also people tell me.. if your not prepared to muck around and fix it i guess youll be running on petrol for a while:)
ben
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I've been mucking around with it all day.
I noticed there was no vacuum at all at the mixer when I pulled the hose off the carb. I blocked up the air filter, sealed everything and it gave a little suction, but still didn't work. Looks like the converter might be stuffed.
never mind.
derek
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There should be a wire from the gas control module to the dizzy. This is there so that if the motor is not running it shuts off the gas. So when you crank the motor over a solenoid should open because the module senses the pulses from the dizzy. No pulses, no open , no start. All solenoids open at least momentarily when you first turn on the ignition.
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Thanks Rocket, I'll have a snoop tomorrow.
Now I have an oil leak from the rear (well dripping from the rear anyway) of the gearbox (borg 5 sp)
I'll clean it up and see where it comes from tomorrow aswell.
derek
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the big blue thing in th piccy of your converter is the primer, wen u turn the ignition on u should hear a hissing sound for bout 3 or so seconds then a click as it turns off, this forces gas into the pipe runnin to the mixer on top of yor carby so there it something there for the engine to fire on. no hisss /click means the primer isnt workin. i would suss the safety switch box or gas lockoffs first with th description u gave . should be two lockoffs, one where the gas line first comes outta the tank, an the other at the end of the line just before it goes into the converter. they usually are earthed by its mounting bracket, so should only be one wire running to each from the safety switch, to lockoff with a spade connecter on end of wire. with ignition on, and changeover switch set to gas , pull the spade off the lockoff then reconnect it , you should hear a slight click as the lockoff opens do it several times if u can hear them opening their ok , so then suss out the safety switch usually a small black box mounted in the engine bay with wires running from it , they have their own earth as well, which runs to the body ,often connected to the screw at the mounting point of the black box itself .check that it is tight an secure an that the black box itself is not loose an movable, as sometimes it does work loose, which will not earth it properly an will render the whole system inoperable.quite often safety switches are the prob, which is why it is advisable to always carry a spare if pos in the ol tool box. converters only usually stuff up by allowing gas or water to start leaking outta them . check all wiring connections as a loose one can also cause probs. hope this helps razor skipppy
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great stuff Skip.
This will keep me busy while the baby is asleep.
THe safety switch part is confusing me. I followed the wires from the selector switch and the y go through the firewall and go their separate ways in the bay to their various destinations. No sign of any black box. Do they ever make the switch and hte safety switch in the same box (in the dash)?
cheers
derek
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Another lucky break for me. I took it to a mechanic that a mate recommended an he traced the problem - earth strap faulty.
For 120 bucks he found the problem, fixed it, put it on the dyno, dialled in the mixture, checked the gearbox oil leak and filled the gearbox with oil.
All without a booking and while I waited.
Take a bow those who said check the earths.
Next to deal with the oil leak from the gearbox and replace a front indicator lense and I'm ready for the RWC.
derek
ps. any known common issues (read quick fix) for the 5 speed borg warner gearbox. The oil is coming from quite high in the box on the left hand side. Most likely from the join between the main box and the extention at the rear.
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glad you got it fixed derek.. coming together coming together..
ben
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Hang in there Derek...Another Beddie nearly on the road ;D ;D
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Thanks lads.
Now the gas is working my next mission is to sort out the air filter/hose situation.
The alloy elbow is just sitting over the carb mouth . The play is around 2mm which is filled with silicone. I would just use a hose except for the fact there is a gas mixer poking through the alloy elbow.
It is a stromberg carb on a 202. Any ideas on how to assemble this correctly?
(http://blogpress.w18.net/photos/10/05/21/193.jpg)
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wot a wierd setup never ever ever seen one like that before. . the gas splitter (thing wiv screw an spring at end of hose) is too close to inlet this is normally found half way up pipe and is used to get correct mixture into carby. usually tuned in whilst engine is held at about 3 grand revs. normally runs a mixer designed to fit ova top of carby ( yes usually sealed with silicone) then air filter sits on top of the mixer (again usually silicone sealed ,but also independantly fixed eg silicone is NOT only thing afixing an holding mixer to carby ,filter to mixer) tuning is as said before done whilst holding motor around 3 grand revs .screw splitter down till revs begin to die then back off screw till motor again begins to die somewherer in middle of those two points is corect setting. then with egine at idle one usually tunes in the idle mix wiv small sprung screw on converter . personally raz i do not like th look of that setup .. but just my opinion ol mate jus my opinion cheers
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That's the same setup as I had on my toyota coaster with 2.8 ltr creseda motor worked a treat
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There should be a bolt holding the elbow down under the gaffa tape.
Also loks like the mixeris mountedsomewhere under the seat - most are mounted in the engine bay - but it doesnt matter where.
Warren
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the mixer is mounted underneath the engine bay
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just noticed that would be the air filter just mounted forward of th elbow into th eng bay itself, ja?, didnt like look of as thought (unusual ;D ) air intake was open straight into eng bay please , excuse my assumption :P ::) :-X ;D
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it looks like the elbow is the mixer raz , where the splitter goes in at top of dome is where mixture is introduced to th carby. the long horizontal elbow bit extendin into eng bay is yor air intake duct where it hits th bend an goes vertical is the mixer bit the spliiter leans or enriches the mix goin down into the engine ;)
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Sorry, I meant the CONVERTER is under the engine.
The mixer pokes through that aluminum elbow. It ends above the centre of the carb in what looks like a down facing banjo.
The elbow joins a rubber hose that goes to the air filter.
I checked today and there is nowhere for a bolt in the centre to screw in to.
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tell me derek is that gas hat a bodjy home made welded up job? or is it actually a proper one?
very impressed all the same.. dodgey or not:)
ben
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Ben, it appears to be a factory made thing from something else. The welds you see are mounds of black and blue goo. The gaffer was covering the hole. I have plugged it since (in a manner that will not pull through).
Any tips on what i can temporarily use for a front indicator lens? I am still chasing a real one but need to go for RWC this week.
cheers
derek
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Round trailer lights (running lights) are almost identcal, I run two on my van, think they were $8 each any auto store will have them.
edit: I think they are Hella but not sure.
Warren
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update -
rwc passed today.
new brake fluid, shockies all round, front shoes, rehung spare, steering coupling, bit of bog etc.
picked up jelly beans today (god I love jelly beans) and ordered some wheel nuts.
will move tyres across to mags next week and hopefully have it looking satisfactory by the following week, when baby2 is born.
Anyone know an engineer for adding seats? I have a good double seat with compliant belts.
cheers
derek
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Cheers derek glad to see you made it. Allan
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Well done big fella.....TOP EFFORT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 8) congrats on da bub tooooooooooo ;D
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Well I started the process of putting in a trimaic, as well as the process of getting the rear seats engineered in.
Today on the way to the engineer I got pulled over by a dude in an FJ saying my rear left wheel was buckled. Bloody hell, (I thought to myself) just what i need.
I jacked it up and roughly measured the runout at the side of the rim (jellybean) at 5-7mm.
I then removed the wheel and got less than a mm runout on the drum. It looks like I may have a buckled alloy rim. does this happen? often? I hope not, but it is better than a bent axle.
Tomorrow Ill swap the wheels around and know for sure.
There's always something isn't there.
derek
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a mate of mine found he has a buckled wheel and i think it may have been buckled for 15 years..
ben
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the good news is that all the jellybeans are perfectly balanced.
The bad new is that means my hub is probably bent.
Today I will attempt to learn what my rear driveline consists of.
It is definitely around 3.3 diff (hwy) and there are welds halfway along the axles.
It is a single wheel axle on a LWB but the wheel arches are DEFINITELY for one wheel and look original.
The stud pattern is bedford, so I assume that the whole inner axle is stock.
dereks questions for the day....
1) can the hub be straightened?
2) could the drum surface be buckled?
3) can I driveit for a while (the lateral movement is around 5mm at the rim)
4) Is this because of me bumping over intersections in the first few trips as I grew accustomed to the LWB?
5) Who has a spare bedford axle?
6) can it be caused by anything else?
cheers
derek
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i have have spare axels.. just tried to call.
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Thanks Ben.. was trying to feed the angry mob so I couldn't get the phone.
Today I made a static pionter and found the hub to be running out around .5mm.
This is around halfway out the radius to where the wheel rim measured 4mm runout.
Before taking drastic action, I think I'll get the rear brake drums machined (I need it done anyway). The dude should be able to tell me if the face is warped at all before he sorts it out.
If that isn't the problem I'll pull the axle out.
cheers
derek
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Rear seats
Yesterday i got engineer approval on the rear seats (lwb)
I bought the seats on ebay for a hundred ish. 80 bucks freight.
They had their own seatbelts and a standards sticker so i went to the engineer BEFORE installing to get his instructions.
i refabricated the bottom (to lower them 50mm) and made up all the kooky backplates for underneath that would provide flex and strength, etc etc.
The good thing is i was able to add to my motorcycle carrier and install child restraints to that (pics later) and get that certified on the same invoice/document. Now I must go (unannounced is ok) to vicroads and hand in the cert within 28 days OR 1000 kms.
seats - 120
freight 80
engineer - 427
vicroads - dunno
fabrication - DIY probably would have charged 400-600 for the work i did.
Now I can carry the kids if and when the magna/wife breaks down.
In other breaking news, it seemd the jellybean mags arent sitting on the hub nicely making the spigot nuts take all the force. I read somewhere on here that was no good, so will try and find out what can be done about it.
derek
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hey delrazor just wondering mate do u have the number for the engineer in whiched you used i need my van engineered for the v8, what is he like is he fairly strict on stuff or what?
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I went to see him and fabricated to his requirements, so I don't know how strict he is.
His company name is talk torque and his name is Bill. 9439 2334
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Hey delrazor Is there any reason you are going to this guy pete
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he was on the vicroads list and answered my call. That's about it.
I was happy with his helpfulness, etc but I can't say whether he is lenient or not as I simply followed his instructions in fabrication.
cheers
derek