BUGA Community
General Category => CF Bedford Chat => Topic started by: obsession on April 15, 2010, 04:49:40 PM
-
i have been wondering if it was worth lead wiping some of the more rust prone areas of the bedy like where the guards are tacked on inside door jam seems ect.
-
Hey Craig.......try looking on Youtube......there might be some vid's on how to get a good finish.
-
can/will rust around/behind it still.
Only real way to remove rust is to:
1/ cut it out
2/ acid dip
3/ sand or other media type blasting
welding up holes wont remove it, it just fills it and weakens around it for it to rust there.
welding over top of rust isn't removing it, it's just puttinga rain coat on it for a bit, same as fibreglass, bog ...
the only way is to do both sides, ideally cutting out the rusted bit is the best method but you must cut wide enough or your just inviting it to start again on the soften edges
-
lead wipping is not for ammatures, you cant have it to hot or to cold, its been a while scince l've done it and not going out of my way to do it again. Something to consider is the glues they use these days instead of weld and the seam sealers ::) :P
-
im talking about preventative maintance not as a coverup or short cut.
-
for preventative measures use fish oil or better yet cavity wax you can thin it with engine oil and spray it . make sure you use fresh engine oil other wise could stink which is another reson to use wax instead of fish oil . :-[
-
im talking about preventative maintance not as a coverup or short cut.
most of the areas that rust are doubled skinned and start rusting from the inside out
-
i remember looking into it a while back.... plenty of people on forums discussing it if you really want to search for it but most of the threads are like this one but usually have people saying stuff like people think its a good thing because they read about it in a old mag or heard about it from a mate but the reality is that its a old fashion and dangerous method used before fiber glass and modern fillers were invented and mass produced to the masses. it brings on rust as you have to use a acidic flux that gets trapped underneath and was always more trouble then its worth and the only people that praise its benefits are old timers or sons of old timers.
then after you read a few comments like that you look for a few youtubes and see people starting of with two nice pieces of metal and end up with a massive mess they have to use a cheese grater on and it still looks like a mess....
then you just forget the whole idea. ;D
-
scientifically looking at rust it is actually a small chemical reaction resembling a battery...
if you look at it from the side in a cut away view you have a pit and a rim of the rust pit.
the water (which is slightly acidic) forms a small circuit and moves electrons (i think its electrons as its been a while since school ;) ) from the center to the rim of the droplet. it ends up loosing material in the center and the pit grows.
so those electronic devices somebody mentioned a while back that use a positive charge through the shell make a lot of sense to me. if you could end this reaction then you should not get rust or atleast reduce its effects.
-
electric rust protection works well on rust free panels buy stoping the electrolosis that`s created by oxidization (rust) . how ever a rusted panel creates too much electicity to be stopped by these gadgets and another way to stop oxidization is buy stoping the oxygen geting to the panel (same way as paint seals the metal) hence my recomendation of cavity wax as for double panels a long tube and a drill bit will give you access . spraying cavity wax will get into a surprising amount of places . for best results use both methods
-
using a sealer like fish oil or wax wont stop rustit will only trap it in the panel you need to use a good thin viscossity rust converter and then you can seal it hope that helps guys cheers neil
-
iv been using a 3m product that i got from an auto paint supply shop its been good so far, but i was worried about poring it into the panel crevis as it its a converter as well as disolver and says to rinse it of after conversion and as u can imagin i cant . So du you reckon safe to por in leave for 24hrs then hit it with fish oil?
-
I would use it Craig but make sure it dries before the next step. I"ve been using rainex (recomended by Farrace Auto Rust). then finishing the panel to completion(outside) once done I will then use a penetrol/rainex solution to get into all the tight spots this is amazing stuff apparently, again letting this dry before i then fill with a cavity wax. just found this on the web
www.fordscorpio.co.uk/cavitywax.htm (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/cavitywax.htm)
http://mike.british-cars.de/ (http://mike.british-cars.de/)
-
dano, is that rannex, or rainex?
rannex is a rust convertor, rainex is a windscreen product to make water flow off the windscreen faster.
my favourite anti rust product - and i used many on the van - was DE-OX-IT, worked a treat, and fast too
-
ok so , today we managed to seperate the top rusty gutter from the good lower gutter about 350mm long and 50 mm into the roof so now im making a steel panel to weld back in , do i use a glue between the two gutters and dose any one know if you can hire a spot welder to reproduce a factory finish ?