BUGA Community
Technical => Driveline => Topic started by: mezzmo on August 19, 2009, 09:06:57 PM
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Hi gang, can someone please give me some advice on easy to fit boosters for a beddie - as you can see by the pics mine is stock but i have been led to believe i need to change this now that i am running discs on the front.
The pics below are of my current set up, if someone could tell me what to fit and supply pics of the install i'd really appreciate it.
Cheers - Mezz
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why does every one want to change the boosters all the time ?? are they so expensive or hard to find?? got mine recond a couple of years ago ... wasn't that expensive..... :-\
i also stuck with the standard booster re discs on the front and now run 11" drums on rear stops on a dime, no rear pressure issues at all.... have you tried it yet Mezzmo or has it busted a seal?
i'm keen to know + chasing a booster if any one has a spare lying around. Dan.
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hey mezzmo i think you run out of fluid in the front section lol. better grab some more:)
i think the problem with keeping the orig master is its setup for drum and drum.
drum and drum require a small amunt of line pressure from the master cylinder, which for discs heats them up and they wont works as well, they will squeak all the time and most probably wear your brake pads down quicker.
you can get your orig one setup for disc front. but you can pick up hq - hz master cyliners from ebay for like 20 bucks its hardly worth it.
not a lot to do mezzmo, modify the brake lines with a double flaring tool so you have the holden ends on your lines, and grind around the section the pops into the booster, turn your bedford booster on its side, drill new holes for the booster nuts to bolt on the holden master, make a new seal out of rubber for between the booster and master and thats pretty much it.
call me if you get stuck.
ben
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Thanks Ben, you wouldn't have any pics would you?
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I think maybe people misunderstand the role of the booster?
The booster has nothing to do with braking performance. The only role of the booster is to make it easier for you to press the brake pedal and make it feel "nice".
The booster is actually a cost cutting device. The better way of doing a brake system is having two master cylinders the correct size for the brake cylinders and a balance bar between the two. Take a look at any race car and you wont find a booster. What you will find though is a brake system thats perfectly setup and works great.
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sorry mezzmo dont have pics. but you will understand when you do it. i did it without knowing what i was doing lol.
i was scared about double flaring tool doing brake lines up until this morning when i jumped on youtube and its easy.
cheers
ben
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... i did it without knowing what i was doing lol........
Thats how you do most stuff isnt it Ben ;D
Warren
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Thats how you do most stuff isnt it Ben Grin
hahahah
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Running VB Commodore brake booster and master cylinder with shortened arm. (no bonnet clearance problems). Do not have to change original Bedford brake booster or master cylinder. Only need to remove check valve in front brake system. This will stop it from holding any residual line pressure in the front system, which is not needed for disc brakes only for drums.
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n126/shazbot_02/DSCF4977.jpg)
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n126/shazbot_02/DSCF4979.jpg)
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n126/shazbot_02/DSCF4980.jpg)
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works well i asume?
cheers
ben
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I had seen this set up b4 done by JAAB Conversions in Adelaide...
Early Commodores have Disc front n drum rear...looks neat...does it work well?
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yep. works great. Parts easy to find. Pulls up on a dime. Still running original proportion valve with F150 diff and drums in rear.
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i know this is digging up an old topic but I'm interested to know with the commodore booster/master conversion, how are people shortening the shaft that connects to the pedal ?
im looking at doing this for mine but I am not sure how the shaft comes out of the booster (if it does at all) and so hence not real sure on the best way to shorten it then re-flatten the bar end without getting too much heat into the booster ?
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Sammy I had the same problem not sure how the pushrod comes out and heat transfer up the rod, so I cut the rod and welded the bedford linkage on the end, did small welds and cooled after each one to try to prevent to much heat,did not like this as it would of hardened the weld, but after thinking about it you could make a sleeve that goes over the rod, weld linkage on the end,the rod is always pushing against the pedal so maybe a grubscrew or rollpin to secure the sleeve to rod, only heat is when you cut the rod.
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When I did mine, we fill up the back with water and wet rags around it, heated it up red hot and used a press to flatten it where we wanted it.
Check with your engineer before you weld pedal or booster, in NZ it's not allowed, not even sleeved.
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I checked with engineer before cutting and welding and he recons it's OK, sleeving was an after thought will ask him about it next time.
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yeah my engineer isn't real keen on welding either!
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Rang engineer today, told him how I welded and cooled to prevent heat,not happy as this hardens the weld area, I suggested the sleeve thing he said he was happy if it is tig welded and cooled in some sand, with a 3mm roll pin to secure it.