Disc Brakes

[Shazbot]

Have heard of a lot of different set ups. Some seem to be very time consuming and fiddley. We are running HQ discs with Ford wheel bearings. Original stub axles are about 1" machined down to Ford trailer wheel bearing size 7/8. With usual calliper adapter plate and front bearing spacer washer. Very simple set up and no mucking around getting discs machined. Walk straight into a shop, buy HQ discs and Ford bearings anywhere, no mucking around. This has been a very reliable set up and has been on my van for 25 years with no broken stub axles or any other problems.
I think alot of people get into trouble and break stub axles because they machine them to HQ bearing size, which is alot smaller. Ford bearings fit straight into HQ discs, just have to change the bearing race along with it, which makes overhauling the brakes a straight forward job. If you have car on the road as a daily driver or are travelling around, you can't afford to be waiting around for discs to be machined.

[ben]

you have machined the later model stub down to the size of the early model stub. (or lwb stub) which requires no machining for ford bearings to fit.

this right?
cheers

[Shazbot]

you have machined the later model stub down to the size of the early model stub. (or lwb stub) which requires no machining for ford bearings to fit.

this right?
cheers

no Ben....We have a SWB with the original stub axels, which are standard about 1", machined down to 7/8 Ford wheel bearing size. Only a marginal amount is needed to be machined to fit the ford bearings and it does not compromise the strength. The original owner did this 25 years ago. We have spoken to him and know this. My husband has changed all the wheel bearings and discs and had no problems at all.

[aka5000]

im running hq front discs from those stubs i got off you ben, they were machined down to fit ford bearings, and like shazbot said they fit hq discs no machining needed. also got commodore discs on rear with hq pattern, van pulls up on a dime its great

alex

[Shazbot]

im running hq front discs from those stubs i got off you ben, they were machined down to fit ford bearings, and like shazbot said they fit hq discs no machining needed. also got commodore discs on rear with hq pattern, van pulls up on a dime its great

alex

Alex,
Hubby is interested in more information on the rear setup you have and what sort of diff and master cylinder is in use. Pic's would be great!!!

Shaz

[Rothu]

Hang on.
So you have no time to get to get disk rotors machined but you have time to get the stub axles machined?
You have to to take the entire stub axle assembly off to get it machined. And regardless of your assertion it doesn't weaken it, it removes the hardened steel (that is on the exterior of a a stub axle) even if it's 1/8 an inch.
Nice idea, though if the stub axle is to be re-hardened, good: it's a pretty substantial piece of your liability to be on the road.

[Merlin]

I gotta say Rothu is right on the money about the stubs under NO circumstances should they be machined .If a stub is even damaged by a spun bearing IE; scoring or blueing sop recommend replacement  beside the safety factor at least think of the liability suits you would be open to if one failed and killed/injured someone . ok enough of my happy thoughts       Cheers Neil

[Shazbot]

Don't get your knickers in a knot there guys!!!! Gosh, if you read my original post correctly you would have seen that I mentioned that the original owner did these modifications 25 years ago!!! My van has been all around Australia at least twice, including Tasmania. After 25 years, this modification has lasted with no breakages and no wheel alignment issues.  We have spoken to the guy. He was a truckie who got all the modifications done by professional people. Yes, they were re-hardened. I didn't think I had to mention this as it is basic first year stuff and any one with mechanical knowledge knows this. Yes, it takes a bit of time in the beginning, (but lets face it, it is only a couple of ball joints and a steering end ) This would probably take no more time than doing the discs! It is actually harder to set up a disc in the machine than it is to set up a stub axle. So. you get your stub axle done and then you don't have to worry about getting anything machined ever again. Cool, I think. You can travel any where in this beautiful country and never get anything machined again. Just replace as necessary. Even a tradesman in a large dealership cannot get discs machined in the time it takes to buy replacements. And this is to face them, not to get the inner hubs machined. My husband ran a major dealership workshop for 10 years and know this.
There are two main reasons we modify to disc breaks. For better breaking and less sprung weight. ( also for better wheel choice and handling  )  Most suspension systems are over engineered. That being said, if we remove the components,,,heavy drums. wheel bearings, shoes, backing plate etc. There is a half to a third reduction in sprung weight and therefore the stub axles are more than adequate to handle a reduction of an 1/8 inch (face hardened, 20 min job) if correctly done.
These trades have an overlap in knowledge. An engineer knows about mechanics and vice versa. This is so that these sorts of jobs are done correctly. (this is first year stuff between trades ) A mechanic will know that something has to be re hardened if it is machined and he would expect the engineer to tell him so and the engineer should tell anyone doing this sort of job.
and off on another tangent......if it is bad to get stub axles machined, is it also bad to get disc hubs (which are caststeel and prone to cracking) machined,? They are all made for a specific purpose and any modification must surely be a liability issue.
Half a dozen of one and half a dozen of the other. Which do you choose??? I want my parts when I am sitting in Laverton at the dusty service station and not have to wait for them to be sent to Kalgoorlie, machined and sent back again and wait around for how many weeks? Only to find it was stuffed up and they have to do it all again! This happens, believe me

[ben]

i think you will find machining of anything is not nessesary..

dont use the later swb stubs.. use the early 1/8th of an inch smaller ones, or lwb ones, then use ford bearings and hq disc.

ok ill do it this week to confirm, i have all of the above bar the bearings here.

ben

[Merlin]

I am not getting my knickers in a knot i am just expressing my concerns about a well documented problem . i have over 30 years in the trade ,the last 18 in vehicle modifications, and i know that theres not a governing body in this country that will accept that modification. the problem is in the re-hardening process if the part is not re-heated to the same temp as the manufacturer did you can get a lamination effect in the axle .you may be lucky in that after 25 years they havent failed or on the other hand it could be just around the corner!! I just dont see the logic of risking yours and others lives for the convenience of not having to machine your rotors which by the way are not hardened and provided there is enough material there for stength .      Cheers Neil